A Few Good Wines

In his most recent weekly column at winespectator.com, the always-interesting Matt Kramer writes about wine etiquette, giving various scenarios in which he either did or didn't perform "properly" asking, "Is there a universal wine etiquette?".

One such scenario was at a dinner where the host (wisely) asked Kramer to select the wines for the table.  The quandary:   how much is the host expecting to spend, and what are they expecting of you?

Interesting read.  And it got me thinking about a question I always hear from friends:  "What is a good bottle of red/white that I can find for ____ bucks or less at a restaurant?".

There are three criteria for wine in that question.  First, it must be "good".  When asked this question, I self-define good as consistent, reliable, enjoyably quaffable, yet at least mildly complex.  In other words, a wine that will make you think - if even for a moment - about how good it is, not just some gluggerific fruit bomb.

Next, the wine(s) must be accessible.  Hearing about a great wine is fun...until you discover that you'll never get to try it because it's either extremely limited and highly allocated, or just flat not available in your market.  No, for this exercise I'm thinking of wines that are widely available on restaurant wine lists, if not in your corner shop.

Lastly, it must be affordable.  I realize this is a relative term, but to the average Joe in every situation but the most special, I'm thinking under $50 per bottle at a restaurant.

If you're at a restaurant and are saddled - by your own decision or someone else's - with selecting the wine for the table, I have a few go-to suggestions that you may find helpful:

• If the restaurant has a sommelier, ask him or her for a recommendation.  Now, I realize most dining establishments (in the South anyway) don't have sommeliers aplenty, but if they do, give them the style of wine and price range you are looking for, and they will usually deliver and then some.  It's also fun to just have them surprise you, and a great way to learn about new or obscure wines.
• Look for the following labels.  For sparkling wine:  Domaine Ste. Michelle, Gloria Ferrer, La Marca, or Roederer.  For whites:  Cakebread, Conundrum, Kim Crawford, Frei Brothers, J. Lohr, Nobilo, Santa Margherita, Sonoma-Cutrer, and Sterling.  For reds:  Belle Glos, Beringer (Knights Valley), Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest, Estancia, Frei Brothers, Hess, La Crema, and Markham.  It's all about knowing your producer.  The aforementioned wineries consistently produce good wines (both to me and the critics), and can be found at restaurants for under 50 bones a bottle.  A quick search of the published wine lists at a national casual dining chain, a local fine dining restaurant, and a national fine dining restaurant affirmed their availability.
• As for what type of wine to order, I follow three simple rules.  If ordering wine as an aperitif and/or to accompany cheeses or light appetizers, go with a bubbly or Sauvignon Blanc.  If your table contains a variety of tastes and, subsequently, a variety of entrees, order a Pinot Noir or Zinfandel.  And finally, if you know everyone is having lighter chicken or fish dishes (maybe with butter or cream-based sauce), order a Chardonnay.  Likewise, order a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon if everyone's meal will consist of hearty ingredients like beef and roasted potatoes.

Matt Kramer's solution?  He looks for relatively inexpensive and slightly weird wines, so that he can say "let's try something crazy" and keep things loose.  Not a bad approach, I suppose, but if you are looking for a wine you can bet your bottom dollar on, stick with my suggestions...or your own.

What are your go-to restaurant wines for under $50 a bottle?