Sunday, March 25, 2012

The Mother Load

Just a few weeks ago, in my post entitled "Open Season", I was belly-aching a bit about the fact that not all of the wine clubs and mailing lists that I belong to had yet announced their spring releases.  Well, the mother load has come in.  If you'll continue to allow the hunting analogy, it's like when you are sitting in the duck blind all morning - just about to give up - and a black cloud of birds comes in right on top of you.   All you can do is 1) hope you can have the guide's limit (if applicable), and 2) hope you have enough shells.

My orders from DiStefano and Williams Selyem have shipped.  My order from Dehlinger arrived a few weeks ago (see my review of their 2009 Chardonnay - maybe the best I have ever tasted...no joke).  And just last week, two of my favorites, MacPhail and Grey Stack, sent out their glorious spring releases.  I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve.  I wish it could all get here now, and my head may explode if it doesn't.

MacPhail and Grey Stack are both small, family operations (MacPhail did sell to Hess last year, but their keepin' it real), but quite different.  MacPhail doesn't own any vineyards, but makes fantastic single vineyard and appellation wines - mostly Pinot Noirs -  from primarily Anderson Valley and Sonoma Coast.  Winemaker James MacPhail is a master at coaxing site characteristics out of his wines.  From MacPhail, I ordered his 2010 Toulouse Vineyard (my perennial favorite), Pratt Vineyard, and The Flyer (a one-time arrangement with Inman, from their Olivet Grange Vineyard) Pinot Noirs, the Gap's Crown Chardonnay (their second vintage - first was awesome), and the 2011 Rose of Pinot Noir (perfect for our warm Spring/Summer days).  The 2011 vintage in Sonoma and Mendocino was cool and rainy, with heat spikes at harvest.  The result, according to MacPhail, is more restrained, nuanced wines with lower alcohols and higher acidity - food-friendly and built for aging.

Grey Stack is located in the cool, obscure Bennett Valley in Southeast Sonoma County.  They make a variety of singe vineyard and appellation wines from their own estate vineyards and those of their friends.  Their website is friggin' hilarious and I suggest checking it out:  greystackcellars.com.  On top of that, though, they make great wine. This year, I ordered their 2011 Rosemary's Block Sauvignon Blanc, 2011 Rose of Syrah & Greanache, 2010 Bennett Valley Cuvee Pinot Noir, and two Rhone-style blends:  the 2010 The Folly Syrah-Grenache and the 2008 The Muldoon Syrah-Grenache Blend.  Their wines are complex, but creamy-smooth and easy to drink.  Affordable, too.

As I've said before, the great and exciting thing about these wine clubs and mailing lists is that these wines aren't available in our market.  It's a shame, but it also makes me feel all warm and fuzzy when the shipments come in.  What are your spring release wine club orders?


Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Wine and Southern Cuisine: Oysters on the Half Shell

When I started this blog, one of my objectives was to show how well wine fits in with our culture, in the hopes that it will begin to be acknowledged as a worthy participant.  Seriously...I like sweet tea, but how did it trump wine in the Southern beverage pecking order?  So, I'm starting a new series of posts called "Wine and Southern Cuisine" where I will, every once in a while, write about "classic" Southern dishes and wine pairings to go with them.  Of course, there is no objective basis for which dishes I deem "classic", but I was born and raised below the Mason-Dixon, so I feel somewhat qualified.  For today...oysters.

Even before my college days of quarter oysters at The Chimes, I've fancied the delectable bivalves from our Southern waters. Now, oysters certainly aren't exclusive to the South (in fact I just had some fantastic Cape Cod oysters while in Boston last week) but, as usual, I think we do them better than anyone else.  The mollusks can be prepared in a number of ways, from chargrilled to fried, even gussied up as Bienville or Rockefeller, but I prefer them in their birthday suit.

Much like wine, raw oysters can communicate a sense of place.  Sweet, briny, muddy, large, or small, the traits of the oyster can give a clear indication of where they're from.  Suck 'em straight out of the shell with their own liquor, or plop them on a cracker with some kicked-up cocktail sauce...oysters make a great snack, appetizer, or entire meal...and they are only made better with the right wines.

Before I start making wine pairing recommendations, let me disclose that my philosophy when it comes to matching food and wine tends to lean towards the "find a good/great wine and everything else will come together" camp.  I realize there are proclaimed arts and sciences to pairing wine with food, but I think especially good (and definitely great) wines will shine through, except in the rare instances where a dish totally overpowers the grape (think: braised short ribs in a rich gravy and Pinot Grigio).

With that said, there are several wines that pair nicely with raw oysters, most of them being crisp, lively whites.  My personal favorites are Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wine.  Sauvignon Blancs, or SBs (on account of my fingers are getting tired) are generally light and bright, with zippy acidity, along with citrus and herbal notes.  I find SBs, along with sparkling wines, have an ability to really bring out and sharpen the sweet-salty flavors from the oysters, the refreshing acidity kind of cleansing the palette and accentuating the textures of the bivalves.  Sparkling wines can be substantially more varied in their styles, but generally (I find) become a bit sweeter when immediately proceeded or followed by a slurp of oyster, only to wipe the palette clean with acidity and bubbles.  Sparkling wines made from grapes grown in limestone soils go even further, recalling the connection between the chalky flavors and textures in the wine and as those from the oyster shells (which is where limestone comes from).

Of widely available, Sauvignon Blancs, I prefer those from New Zealand.  Its cool climate manifests complexity in a somewhat predictable style that usually displays tropical fruit up front, followed by herbal/grassy flavors, finishing clean with lemon-lime citrus and racy acidity.  Brancott, Mohua, and Nobilo are three of my favorites in the under-$15 range.  Cloudy Bay and Whitehaven are excellent and dependable options in the under-$25 range.  There are plenty of other good, affordable, non-New Zealand SBs that are widely available, such as Bogle, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Joel Gott, Vina Montes, and Veramonte.


Again, there are several good, affordable, widely-available options in sparkling wine.  Domaine Chandon's Brut Classic (under $25) always comes to mind because perhaps my first experience pairing oysters with bubbly happened at that winery.  Sipping bubbly and slurping oysters out on their patio in Napa will endear anyone.  Domaine Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Brut is another good one.  If you are willing to spend a little more and/or look for them, Argyle Brut Willamette Valley, Ceja Sparkling Brut, and Moet Imperial are excellent choices.  Seriously, it's worth it.

 Next up:  BBQ pork.  Don't know when I'll weave in the next "Wine and Southern Cuisine" post, but when I do, I'll be digging on the swine. 

What do you enjoy drinking with oysters (beer is a perfectly acceptable answer)?  What are your favorite Southern dishes?  Wine pairings?

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Wine Review: 2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Wow.

That was the first word out of my mouth after my initial sip of Dehlinger's just-released 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley.  This is my first wine as a member of the winery's mailing list, having just received my spring shipment last week.

Dehlinger Winery enjoys a stellar reputation for making fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel.  One of their Pinots, the 2008 Russian River Valley, made Wine Spectator's "Top 100" last year, coming in at #5.  Not bad for a small, family operation.

Tom Dehlinger started his winery, located in the Russian River Valley, in 1975 and has been kicking butt ever since.  His wines are all estate grown and produced, meaning they grow the grapes and make the wine (it's rarer than you might think).  As you might guess, knowing the vineyard characteristics and the fruit on the vine during a vintage only gives Tom greater insight during the winemaking process.  His hands-on, gentle winemaking style let's his incredible fruit speak for itself, while also allowing the unique characteristics of his vineyards to show through.  The 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is an excellent example of Dehlinger's work.  The wine is aged in French oak barrels and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, which converts the tart malic acid to the creamier lactic acid.  This creates a fuller wine with what many associate as "buttery" characteristics.

2009 was a pretty darn good growing season in Sonoma, and the vintage is turning out some great wines.  The Chardonnay showed the characteristics of the long, even growing season in a cool spot like Dehlinger's estate.  The wine had the near-perfect balance of rich fruit, lively acidity, and deep complexity.  The first thing that struck me was the nose.  Complex apple, spice, and honey aromas immediately filled up the glass.  The initial flavors from the wine, called the "attack", were awesome.  Big lemon custard, creme brulee, kettle corn notes were the first to strike, followed by apple pie, vanilla, and mineral.  The texture of the Chardonnay is truly unique.  Creamy, almost oily, it coats the mouth...and then dries up quickly as the almost-zippy acidity takes over.  No kidding...the finish on this wines continues for 2-3 minutes.  Superb.

The 2009 Chardonnay was an excellent partner to a lettuce wedge salad with homemade bleu cheese dressing and bacon, but honestly, this wine steals the show.  It is definitely worthy of its own stage.

You won't find Dehlinger wines in the store, and chances are slim you will see it on a restaurant wine list outside of California.  As awarded as Dehlinger is, they really do maintain a small, casual, family operation, and you can simply call them up to see if there is any wine still available for purchase.  Or you can join their mailing list.  The 2009 Chardonnay has not been reviewed yet by the major publications and/or critics, but my guess is it will receive some big-time scores and, once that happens, it will be bought up faster than booze at an SEC tailgate.  My point is, if you want to try this wine, get it while you still can...if you still can.  My order will be placed tomorrow.

2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley.  A steal at $37.50.  I can't wait to try the 2009 Pinots and Claret that came in my spring shipment.  Makes me all tingly just thinking about it.


Thursday, March 8, 2012

A Few Good Wines

In his most recent weekly column at winespectator.com, the always-interesting Matt Kramer writes about wine etiquette, giving various scenarios in which he either did or didn't perform "properly" asking, "Is there a universal wine etiquette?".

One such scenario was at a dinner where the host (wisely) asked Kramer to select the wines for the table.  The quandary:   how much is the host expecting to spend, and what are they expecting of you?

Interesting read.  And it got me thinking about a question I always hear from friends:  "What is a good bottle of red/white that I can find for ____ bucks or less at a restaurant?".

There are three criteria for wine in that question.  First, it must be "good".  When asked this question, I self-define good as consistent, reliable, enjoyably quaffable, yet at least mildly complex.  In other words, a wine that will make you think - if even for a moment - about how good it is, not just some gluggerific fruit bomb.

Next, the wine(s) must be accessible.  Hearing about a great wine is fun...until you discover that you'll never get to try it because it's either extremely limited and highly allocated, or just flat not available in your market.  No, for this exercise I'm thinking of wines that are widely available on restaurant wine lists, if not in your corner shop.

Lastly, it must be affordable.  I realize this is a relative term, but to the average Joe in every situation but the most special, I'm thinking under $50 per bottle at a restaurant.

If you're at a restaurant and are saddled - by your own decision or someone else's - with selecting the wine for the table, I have a few go-to suggestions that you may find helpful:

  • If the restaurant has a sommelier, ask him or her for a recommendation.  Now, I realize most dining establishments (in the South anyway) don't have sommeliers aplenty, but if they do, give them the style of wine and price range you are looking for, and they will usually deliver and then some.  It's also fun to just have them surprise you, and a great way to learn about new or obscure wines.
  • Look for the following labels.  For sparkling wine:  Domaine Ste. Michelle, Gloria Ferrer, La Marca, or Roederer.  For whites:  Cakebread, Conundrum, Kim Crawford, Frei Brothers, J. Lohr, Nobilo, Santa Margherita, Sonoma-Cutrer, and Sterling.  For reds:  Belle Glos, Beringer (Knights Valley), Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest, Estancia, Frei Brothers, Hess, La Crema, and Markham.  It's all about knowing your producer.  The aforementioned wineries consistently produce good wines (both to me and the critics), and can be found at restaurants for under 50 bones a bottle.  A quick search of the published wine lists at a national casual dining chain, a local fine dining restaurant, and a national fine dining restaurant affirmed their availability.
  • As for what type of wine to order, I follow three simple rules.  If ordering wine as an aperitif and/or to accompany cheeses or light appetizers, go with a bubbly or Sauvignon Blanc.  If your table contains a variety of tastes and, subsequently, a variety of entrees, order a Pinot Noir or Zinfandel.  And finally, if you know everyone is having lighter chicken or fish dishes (maybe with butter or cream-based sauce), order a Chardonnay.  Likewise, order a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon if everyone's meal will consist of hearty ingredients like beef and roasted potatoes.
Matt Kramer's solution?  He looks for relatively inexpensive and slightly weird wines, so that he can say "let's try something crazy" and keep things loose.  Not a bad approach, I suppose, but if you are looking for a wine you can bet your bottom dollar on, stick with my suggestions...or your own.

What are your go-to restaurant wines for under $50 a bottle?

Monday, March 5, 2012

Open Season

Ahhhhh...it's springtime here in South Louisiana, and that means LSU baseball, crawfish boils, Abita strawberry lager, and Lent (just...33...more...days...).  For wine enthusiasts, spring is also a time when many wineries offer their latest releases to their wine clubs or mailing lists.  It's a veritable open season and, like duck hunting in Stuttgart, the bounty can almost be too much to handle.  I have had to learn to be a "sportsman" (if you remember those old hunter's ed videos), not shooting at everything out there, but picking my targets carefully.

I think wine clubs and mailing lists are great for wineries and wines that I couldn't easily get otherwise, meaning they are extremely limited or just not available in my market.  Most artisan wineries conduct two major releases:  a spring release of predominately appellation wines (i.e. Russian River Valley), and a fall release of predominantly single-vineyard or proprietary blend wines.  Appellation wines are usually a little less expensive and a bit more approachable.  Single-vineyard wines and fancy blends are usually more concentrated and need a little more time in the barrel and/or bottle.  If there is a waiting list for a wine club you are after, you are usually more likely to get an allocation in a spring release (though I'm still waiting on you, Kosta Browne).

It is pretty easy to get on most wineries' mailing lists - usually as simple as supplying an address or email online.  Some enroll you immediately.  Others have a "waiting list".  Either way, once you are in, expect at least bi-annual newsletters filled with colorful vineyard photos and lots of hyperbole.  As is always the case, know your producer so that you don't get caught up in the winemaker's or proprietor's "remarks" about biodynamic farming, aging on the lees, or high notes of old shoes dipped in cranberry sauce.  If they make good wine, they make good wine.  Some are just more verbose than others.  The real fun comes when you strike up a relationship with the folks and actually know what they are talking about, or better yet can call them up and ask them about their latest release.


Of those clubs/lists that I participate in, Williams Selyem, Lucia, DiStefano, Siduri & Novy, and Dehlinger (pronounced "day-linger"...which is fun to say) have already announced their spring releases.  I'm still waiting to hear from the likes of MacPhail, Grey Stack, Pine Ridge, and Mueller.  Most of these wineries are releasing their 2010s, which should be interesting.  We were out in Napa/Sonoma in November 2010, just after harvest, and most winemakers were cautiously optimistic about the vintage.  It was a cool year, with intense bouts of heat and rain just before harvest.

If the early results are any indication, 2010 is going to turn out some mighty fine wines.  Novy's 2010 RRV Zinfandel and Four Mile Creek red and white blends are delicious.  Crisp and complex, indicative of a cooler vintage.  My friends at MacPhail also told me recently that their 2010 Pinot Noirs are showing very nicely as well.

As my shipments start rolling in, I think it fun to taste the latest wines against the previous release(s) to get a feel for the characteristics of the vintage (those identified in appellation blends will likely be amplified in the single-vineyard wines).  Plus, it's another excuse to drink good juice with friends.

Enjoy the sporting fun of wine drinking during this "open season".  To which wine clubs and/or mailing lists do you belong?

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Red-Blooded, Southern...Champagne-Drinker?

I like sparkling wine.  There, I said it.  I'm a man.  From the South.  And I like the bubbly.  To some of you, this may sound laughable.  You are fools. 

Sparkling wine is wine after all, not just some ubiquitous, novelty drink for celebrations.  Around here, it's enjoyment is usually reserved for New Year's Eve and football season, where it is mixed with orange juice or some other fruity liquid to create a "festive" cocktail at tailgates.

That's all fine and good, but sparkling wine can be just as nuanced and interesting as still wine.  It's usually more versatile, too.  Need a bevy to spruce up those scrambled eggs?  Grab a sparkler.  Want the perfect aperitif to freshen the palate?  Bubbles.  Looking for something to accompany those soft cheeses? Oysters? Crab cakes? Chicken wings?  Cake?  You guessed it.

But "champagne" is so expensive...

No, it's not.  In fact, if you see "champagne" on the bottle and it's not from the famed region of France, it's probably plonk.  Alas, there are several (mostly New World) affordable options with which to begin your appreciation of "every day" sparkling wine.  Look for these producers:  Gloria Ferrer, Domaine Carneros, Flying Goat, Korbel, Barefoot, Scharffenberger, Roederer Estate, Mumm Napa, Domaine Chandon, Domaine Ste. Michelle, Gruet, Segura Viudas, Louis Perdrier, and Monmousseau.


When actually enjoying sparkling wine (as opposed to glugging it at a party), first, stick your nose in it.  Aromas may range from apples, lemons, and pears to biscuits, cinnamon toast, and sea breeze.  Likewise, on the palate, sparklers can be bright, crisp, and lively with white fruits, citrus, and brine.  Or, they can be rich, robust, even succulent with tropical fruits, biscuit dough, apple pie and roasted nut flavors.  Pay attention to the distinctions amongst these wines, appreciate the different regions from which they come, and think of them just as you would any other wine - a worthwhile companion to most any occassion.

A frosty bottle of Domaine Carneros Brut catches 
some rays

 Special shout out to my pal, Bryce Harrison, up in Arkansas for my shiny new logo.  Thanks, bro.

Cheers.