Wine Review: 2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley

Wow.

That was the first word out of my mouth after my initial sip of Dehlinger's just-released 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley.  This is my first wine as a member of the winery's mailing list, having just received my spring shipment last week.

Dehlinger Winery enjoys a stellar reputation for making fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel.  One of their Pinots, the 2008 Russian River Valley, made Wine Spectator's "Top 100" last year, coming in at #5.  Not bad for a small, family operation.

Tom Dehlinger started his winery, located in the Russian River Valley, in 1975 and has been kicking butt ever since.  His wines are all estate grown and produced, meaning they grow the grapes and make the wine (it's rarer than you might think).  As you might guess, knowing the vineyard characteristics and the fruit on the vine during a vintage only gives Tom greater insight during the winemaking process.  His hands-on, gentle winemaking style let's his incredible fruit speak for itself, while also allowing the unique characteristics of his vineyards to show through.  The 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is an excellent example of Dehlinger's work.  The wine is aged in French oak barrels and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, which converts the tart malic acid to the creamier lactic acid.  This creates a fuller wine with what many associate as "buttery" characteristics.

2009 was a pretty darn good growing season in Sonoma, and the vintage is turning out some great wines.  The Chardonnay showed the characteristics of the long, even growing season in a cool spot like Dehlinger's estate.  The wine had the near-perfect balance of rich fruit, lively acidity, and deep complexity.  The first thing that struck me was the nose.  Complex apple, spice, and honey aromas immediately filled up the glass.  The initial flavors from the wine, called the "attack", were awesome.  Big lemon custard, creme brulee, kettle corn notes were the first to strike, followed by apple pie, vanilla, and mineral.  The texture of the Chardonnay is truly unique.  Creamy, almost oily, it coats the mouth...and then dries up quickly as the almost-zippy acidity takes over.  No kidding...the finish on this wines continues for 2-3 minutes.  Superb.

The 2009 Chardonnay was an excellent partner to a lettuce wedge salad with homemade bleu cheese dressing and bacon, but honestly, this wine steals the show.  It is definitely worthy of its own stage.

You won't find Dehlinger wines in the store, and chances are slim you will see it on a restaurant wine list outside of California.  As awarded as Dehlinger is, they really do maintain a small, casual, family operation, and you can simply call them up to see if there is any wine still available for purchase.  Or you can join their mailing list.  The 2009 Chardonnay has not been reviewed yet by the major publications and/or critics, but my guess is it will receive some big-time scores and, once that happens, it will be bought up faster than booze at an SEC tailgate.  My point is, if you want to try this wine, get it while you still can...if you still can.  My order will be placed tomorrow.

2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley.  A steal at $37.50.  I can't wait to try the 2009 Pinots and Claret that came in my spring shipment.  Makes me all tingly just thinking about it.