Yes, it's been a LONG time since my last post...and I've got drafts stacked up like planes on the runway at ATL. This is one of my favorites. One that I hope will become an annual tradition. I originally penned this way back in August, but actually like that I waited until now. Just as with preseason polls, you really can't capture the flavor of a team until at least midway through the season...or better yet, once the season is over.
While I'm not a sportswriter, I am an alum of an SEC institution and an avid college sports fan, so I feel at least somewhat qualified in writing this. If nothing else, I've at least seen all of these teams play several times this season. So, without further ado, I bring you the Wines of the SEC (in alphabetical order - I would never lead off with Bama otherwise):
Alabama = Champagne. Like 'em or hate 'em, there's no denying they are the undisputed champs and they know it. Yes, there have been some "off" years. but the Tide and Champagne's producers remain pretty darn consistent when it comes to turning out a unique, quality product.
Arkansas = White Zin. No matter how much you try to class it up, neither will ever really be respectable. Also, the majority of their fans never actually attended a university.
Auburn = Argentine Malbec. Capable of being really good...and really bad.
Florida = Australian Shiraz. Used to be a big deal, then became ubiquitous and uninspiring. Now making a comeback. I've heard fans of Aussie Shiraz wear jorts.
Georgia = Oregon Pinot Noir. Not quite Burgundy, but consistently good and getting better and better.
Kentucky = New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignon. Both known for doing something else much better.
LSU = California Zinfandel. Spicy, casual, and ready to party. Can underachieve but has the ability to be elite. Zin also pairs especially well with South Louisiana cuisine.
Mississippi State = N/A. No one in Starkville drinks wine.
Missouri = any type of wine made in Missouri. They make wine in Missouri? Exactly.
Ole Miss = Bourdeaux. Inflated self-image. Snooty, pretentious and proud of it. There may be a bit of blue collar work ethic creeping in, though, and it seems to be paying off.
South Carolina = Cotes du Rhone. Can be good. Hardly ever great. Loyal following. I wish there was an Ol' Ball Coach of wine.
Tennessee = German Riesling. Proud history; slightly obscure and trying to become relevant again in the mainstream.
Texas A&M = California Rhone-style wines. Relative new kids on the block. Different (see: female winemakers and all-male cheerleaders), but coming on strong with some rising stars.
Vanderbilt = Merlot. Perennial punchline, but coming around.
Friday, August 31, 2012
Friday, June 15, 2012
Wine and Southern Cuisine: Fried Chicken
There is, perhaps, no more "Southern" a dish than fried chicken. Its roots go deep, and it harkens back to the days when yardbird was plentiful and money was not. A quick chop, some vigorous plucking, and zip-bam-boom...dinner for a crowd. A finger-lickin', knuckle-suckin' good dinner, I might add.
These days, I'd venture to guess most fried chicken dinners aren't prepared at home, but it seems it has seen a bit of a resurgence at even the "classier" restaurants. Regardless of the setting or occasion, fried chicken is good. I still get as giddy as a school girl when I know it's on the menu. And what beverage is worthy of such a noble meal? Well...wine, of course.
I can't lie. Sweet tea is freakin' good with fried chicken. Fresh lemonade ain't bad either. But if you are like me and believe wine always has a place at the table (ok, not the kids table...unless you're in one of those families where anyone under 40 still sits at the kids table), then I submit to you that there are some mighty fine pairings out there for fried chicken with all the fixins. Give 'em a try, and wine will become an automatic side. Right there with biscuits, mashed potatoes, white gravy, corn on the cob, red beans and rice, purple hull peas..............must.....re.....fo.......cus.
We begin with bubbly. I don't know what it is, but something about the carbonation in sparkling wine creates a magical match with greasy dishes (yes, fried chicken is greasy...get over it). Like ebony and ivory, the light effervescence of sparking wine does indeed create harmony with the greasy, spicy richness of fried chicken. I prefer lighter, snappier sparklers with spicier fried chicken, and toasty, yeasty styles for milder fried chicken dishes. Now, I'm not suggesting you raid the cellar for the bottle you bought to commemorate the birth of your first child - although Hooters does offer Dom Perignon (seriously) - to pair with your next box of fried chicken. There are plenty of less expensive bubblies out there if you want to experiment. I would suggest the Domaine Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Brut for the lighter, crisper style; Segura Viudas Brut Reserva for a richer, toastier style; and Barefoot Bubbly Brut for something in between. Try it. You'll like it. Might even give you an excuse to take the wife to Hooters.
Another solid wine choice for fried chicken is Chardonnay. Often called the "red wine in white clothes", Chardonnay has flavors that complement fried chicken - lemon, apple, toast, nuts, butter - but also the body to keep up with the big, rich flavors of that crispy deliciousness. Unlike sparkling wine, where the bubbles sort of neutralize the grease, you need a Chardonnay that can open-mouth kiss your sloppy dinner right back. It's not always my favorite style of Chard, but you need a ripe, full-blown one to stand up to fried chicken in my opinion. Those made by Bernardus, Ferrari-Carano, Alamos, Frei Brothers, Frank Family, La Crema, and J. Lohr "Riverstone" reliably "put out" in that regard.
If you really want to experiment, try Novy Oley Dessert Wine Viognier with the soul food classic chicken and waffles. Sweet, sticky goodness. Nuff said.
So, go grab a box, get spiffed up to have it served to you on a plate, or purchase a live chicken to kill...but be sure to snag a bottle of vino to go with it. Let me know what you think...
Wine + Southern Cuisine = Yum
These days, I'd venture to guess most fried chicken dinners aren't prepared at home, but it seems it has seen a bit of a resurgence at even the "classier" restaurants. Regardless of the setting or occasion, fried chicken is good. I still get as giddy as a school girl when I know it's on the menu. And what beverage is worthy of such a noble meal? Well...wine, of course.
I can't lie. Sweet tea is freakin' good with fried chicken. Fresh lemonade ain't bad either. But if you are like me and believe wine always has a place at the table (ok, not the kids table...unless you're in one of those families where anyone under 40 still sits at the kids table), then I submit to you that there are some mighty fine pairings out there for fried chicken with all the fixins. Give 'em a try, and wine will become an automatic side. Right there with biscuits, mashed potatoes, white gravy, corn on the cob, red beans and rice, purple hull peas..............must.....re.....fo.......cus.
We begin with bubbly. I don't know what it is, but something about the carbonation in sparkling wine creates a magical match with greasy dishes (yes, fried chicken is greasy...get over it). Like ebony and ivory, the light effervescence of sparking wine does indeed create harmony with the greasy, spicy richness of fried chicken. I prefer lighter, snappier sparklers with spicier fried chicken, and toasty, yeasty styles for milder fried chicken dishes. Now, I'm not suggesting you raid the cellar for the bottle you bought to commemorate the birth of your first child - although Hooters does offer Dom Perignon (seriously) - to pair with your next box of fried chicken. There are plenty of less expensive bubblies out there if you want to experiment. I would suggest the Domaine Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Brut for the lighter, crisper style; Segura Viudas Brut Reserva for a richer, toastier style; and Barefoot Bubbly Brut for something in between. Try it. You'll like it. Might even give you an excuse to take the wife to Hooters.
Another solid wine choice for fried chicken is Chardonnay. Often called the "red wine in white clothes", Chardonnay has flavors that complement fried chicken - lemon, apple, toast, nuts, butter - but also the body to keep up with the big, rich flavors of that crispy deliciousness. Unlike sparkling wine, where the bubbles sort of neutralize the grease, you need a Chardonnay that can open-mouth kiss your sloppy dinner right back. It's not always my favorite style of Chard, but you need a ripe, full-blown one to stand up to fried chicken in my opinion. Those made by Bernardus, Ferrari-Carano, Alamos, Frei Brothers, Frank Family, La Crema, and J. Lohr "Riverstone" reliably "put out" in that regard.
If you really want to experiment, try Novy Oley Dessert Wine Viognier with the soul food classic chicken and waffles. Sweet, sticky goodness. Nuff said.
So, go grab a box, get spiffed up to have it served to you on a plate, or purchase a live chicken to kill...but be sure to snag a bottle of vino to go with it. Let me know what you think...
Wine + Southern Cuisine = Yum
Monday, June 11, 2012
The Three Wine Languages
Recently at church, our Sunday School class was studying The 5 Love Languages, which is a faith-based program that hypothesizes that people communicate "love" in different ways, and the better you understand how you and your mate communicate, the happier you will be. Good stuff.
And not that my mind was wondering during our group discussion, but I got to thinking about how wines connect to people. My theory? Wine "communicates" to us (and we reciprocally receive what it is saying) in three ways:
Smell - The first impression (usually). A wine can tell you a lot about itself with a little sniffy-sniff. First, a wine will tell you what kind of shape it's in. Overtly funky aromas are usually a sign that a wine has seen better days. On the flip-side, an inviting bouquet only makes you that much more excited to drink it. It might be all fruit, like apples, cherries, strawberries, citrus zest, and plums. It might give off some savory scents - popcorn, earth, mushrooms, stone, tobacco, leather, and minerals. Spice box, vanilla, honey, caramel, mint, and chocolate are also common aromas. A wine's nose might tell you if its young or old. It can tell you a lot about the conditions in which the grapes were grown - cool or warm climate, high elevation or valley floor, the types of soils; and how the wine was made - aged in oak or steel, new or neutral oak, New- or Old-World style. Over 70% of what we perceive to be taste is actually smell, so this "language" sets the stage for the next, which is...
Taste - This one might seem obvious, but wines tell a story with their flavors. Wines from cool climates tend to taste more restrained, spicy, with slightly higher acidity and lower alcohol. Those from warmer locales usually possess bigger, bolder fruit flavors with higher alcohol levels. Oak, if used in the winemaking process, imparts flavors of vanilla, toast, honey, and spice. Wines from single vineyards tend to be more dense and concentrated (even awkward when young), while "appellation" wines - those using grapes blended from multiple sites - are almost immediately approachable and more balanced. Likewise, a wine's taste can tell you how it was made. Bold, fruit forward styles usually indicate New World. Restrained, less approachable, more site-driven wines indicate Old World style. Tannic (astringent) wines are often a sign that the grapes and their juice were fermented whole-cluster, or at least with skins and stems. Of course, it's vitally important that a wine actually taste "good" to you. Otherwise, the rest of the story may never get told.
Experience - Not totally separate from the other two "languages" (in fact, the "smell" section of your brain is right next to the "memory" aisle), experience consists of those moments in time associated with a wine. All things being equal, a wine tastes better to me when I have walked on the soil in which it was grown, or met the winemaker whose hands rendered the product, or even just enjoyed the same bottle with friends one special evening. Perhaps the vintage of a wine is also a significant date to you, like the birth year of a child. All of these experiences - and many more - can be captured in a bottle of wine. Indeed, a recent trip to Santa Barbara wine country just opened up a whole new line of communication to me from the wines of that area (more to come in future posts).
As an enthusiast (not expert!), I strive to understand all three wine languages but, just as with The 5 Love Languages, one communicates more clearly to me, and it's "experience." Beyond just grapes, I believe wine is made up of time, place, and people. Experience helps me recall all three. What about you?
As for our Sunday School lesson...I'm pretty sure my love language is "service" (get your mind out of the gutter). Fortunately for me - and probably my wife - wine can be easily served. Liquid love, as it were.
And not that my mind was wondering during our group discussion, but I got to thinking about how wines connect to people. My theory? Wine "communicates" to us (and we reciprocally receive what it is saying) in three ways:
Smell - The first impression (usually). A wine can tell you a lot about itself with a little sniffy-sniff. First, a wine will tell you what kind of shape it's in. Overtly funky aromas are usually a sign that a wine has seen better days. On the flip-side, an inviting bouquet only makes you that much more excited to drink it. It might be all fruit, like apples, cherries, strawberries, citrus zest, and plums. It might give off some savory scents - popcorn, earth, mushrooms, stone, tobacco, leather, and minerals. Spice box, vanilla, honey, caramel, mint, and chocolate are also common aromas. A wine's nose might tell you if its young or old. It can tell you a lot about the conditions in which the grapes were grown - cool or warm climate, high elevation or valley floor, the types of soils; and how the wine was made - aged in oak or steel, new or neutral oak, New- or Old-World style. Over 70% of what we perceive to be taste is actually smell, so this "language" sets the stage for the next, which is...
Taste - This one might seem obvious, but wines tell a story with their flavors. Wines from cool climates tend to taste more restrained, spicy, with slightly higher acidity and lower alcohol. Those from warmer locales usually possess bigger, bolder fruit flavors with higher alcohol levels. Oak, if used in the winemaking process, imparts flavors of vanilla, toast, honey, and spice. Wines from single vineyards tend to be more dense and concentrated (even awkward when young), while "appellation" wines - those using grapes blended from multiple sites - are almost immediately approachable and more balanced. Likewise, a wine's taste can tell you how it was made. Bold, fruit forward styles usually indicate New World. Restrained, less approachable, more site-driven wines indicate Old World style. Tannic (astringent) wines are often a sign that the grapes and their juice were fermented whole-cluster, or at least with skins and stems. Of course, it's vitally important that a wine actually taste "good" to you. Otherwise, the rest of the story may never get told.
Experience - Not totally separate from the other two "languages" (in fact, the "smell" section of your brain is right next to the "memory" aisle), experience consists of those moments in time associated with a wine. All things being equal, a wine tastes better to me when I have walked on the soil in which it was grown, or met the winemaker whose hands rendered the product, or even just enjoyed the same bottle with friends one special evening. Perhaps the vintage of a wine is also a significant date to you, like the birth year of a child. All of these experiences - and many more - can be captured in a bottle of wine. Indeed, a recent trip to Santa Barbara wine country just opened up a whole new line of communication to me from the wines of that area (more to come in future posts).
As an enthusiast (not expert!), I strive to understand all three wine languages but, just as with The 5 Love Languages, one communicates more clearly to me, and it's "experience." Beyond just grapes, I believe wine is made up of time, place, and people. Experience helps me recall all three. What about you?
As for our Sunday School lesson...I'm pretty sure my love language is "service" (get your mind out of the gutter). Fortunately for me - and probably my wife - wine can be easily served. Liquid love, as it were.
Thursday, April 26, 2012
A Refresher Course
Sipping the crisp and refreshing Novy Four Mile Creek White as I watch the 2012 NFL Draft. As usual, the SEC is dominating.
And speaking of the South, this time of year, it starts to get awfully warm. Not the oppressive, melt-your-face type of heat we endure mid-summer, but very warm nonetheless. Now, to be honest, when its 98 degrees out with 100 percent humidity, wine ain't my drink of choice. Agua is my preferred bevie. Not that I would turn down a crisp pale ale or even a lemonade...
The point is, this is the time of year when we spend a lot of time outdoors, and what better to accompany your time in the sun (or shade - it is pretty hot) than a light, refreshing vino. I'm relatively new to this style of wine, but am constantly impressed by their versatility and easy-drinking character. Lighter, acidic, unoaked (or barely oaked) whites pair extremely well with a lot of the foods that we like to eat this time of year: shellfish, white fish (think: speckled trout), fresh fruits and veggies, and artisinal cheeses. Crisp whites are pretty good on their own, too.
Not heavy or cloying, as some white wines can be, these wines hit you with apple, pear, honeysuckle, wet stone and spice flavors. Most are pretty well balanced, with a zippy acidity that finishes clean and refreshes the palette. Many of these wines have slightly lower alcohol levels (sub-14%) as well, so they won't weigh you down in the Southern spring heat. Lighter, balanced, lower alcohol wines have been a staple in Europe for centuries, and are starting to gain traction here in the New World. A recent weekend in New Orleans affirmed this as I was able to sip on Trimbach Pinot Gris and Hugl Gruner Veltliner while dining on flamenkuche and pulled pork at Luke Restaurant on a warm Saturday.
Some of my recent favorite wines of this refreshing style include: the aforementioned Novy Four Mile Creek White, Grey Stack Rosemary's Block Sauvignon Blanc, Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc, Trimbach Riesling, Dr. Loosen Riesling, Kilkanoon Riesling, Ponzi Pinot Gris, Alderbrook Pinot Gris, King Estate Pinot Gris, Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, A to Z Chardonnay, Villa Maria Chardonnay, LinCourt Chardonnay Unoaked, Mer Soleil Silver, Morgan Chardonnay Metallico.
What are some of your favorite warm-weather whites?
And speaking of the South, this time of year, it starts to get awfully warm. Not the oppressive, melt-your-face type of heat we endure mid-summer, but very warm nonetheless. Now, to be honest, when its 98 degrees out with 100 percent humidity, wine ain't my drink of choice. Agua is my preferred bevie. Not that I would turn down a crisp pale ale or even a lemonade...
The point is, this is the time of year when we spend a lot of time outdoors, and what better to accompany your time in the sun (or shade - it is pretty hot) than a light, refreshing vino. I'm relatively new to this style of wine, but am constantly impressed by their versatility and easy-drinking character. Lighter, acidic, unoaked (or barely oaked) whites pair extremely well with a lot of the foods that we like to eat this time of year: shellfish, white fish (think: speckled trout), fresh fruits and veggies, and artisinal cheeses. Crisp whites are pretty good on their own, too.
Not heavy or cloying, as some white wines can be, these wines hit you with apple, pear, honeysuckle, wet stone and spice flavors. Most are pretty well balanced, with a zippy acidity that finishes clean and refreshes the palette. Many of these wines have slightly lower alcohol levels (sub-14%) as well, so they won't weigh you down in the Southern spring heat. Lighter, balanced, lower alcohol wines have been a staple in Europe for centuries, and are starting to gain traction here in the New World. A recent weekend in New Orleans affirmed this as I was able to sip on Trimbach Pinot Gris and Hugl Gruner Veltliner while dining on flamenkuche and pulled pork at Luke Restaurant on a warm Saturday.
Some of my recent favorite wines of this refreshing style include: the aforementioned Novy Four Mile Creek White, Grey Stack Rosemary's Block Sauvignon Blanc, Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc, Trimbach Riesling, Dr. Loosen Riesling, Kilkanoon Riesling, Ponzi Pinot Gris, Alderbrook Pinot Gris, King Estate Pinot Gris, Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, A to Z Chardonnay, Villa Maria Chardonnay, LinCourt Chardonnay Unoaked, Mer Soleil Silver, Morgan Chardonnay Metallico.
What are some of your favorite warm-weather whites?
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
A Nice Day for a Wine Wedding
Whew! That was one wine-derful weekend. I reflect as I savor the few remaining sips of my last bottle of MacPhail 2010 Rose (100% Pinot Noir = delicious)...
The Mrs. and I had the privilege of attending a relative's wedding in New Orleans - and all the associated events - over the weekend. It was one of the most interesting and enjoyable weekends for us in a while. My relative, the bride, was born and raised in Louisiana, but she has lived in Europe for eight years. Her groom is from Denmark, where the two met. During their courtship, the couple has lived in Copenhagen, Zurich and, most recently, Sao Paulo, Brazil...making friends along the way. The wedding guests and attendants were a fantastic 50-50 mix of foreigners and Southerners, and the ceremony and reception were a perfectly-designed blend of Southern U.S. and Danish traditions. The Big Man Upstairs also helped out on this holiest of weekends with some primo weather. Blue skies, temps in the low 80s, and nary a drop of humidity. For New Orleans in April, it doesn't get much better.
But this ain't one of those "wedding blogs". What gives?
Just setting the stage, my friends. To the wine!
First, we had an incredible meal at a newer restaurant with an interesting wine list, which will be the subject of my next blog...stay tuned.
And now...the rest of the wine story. My relative, after trying some of the California wines I brought to our family Thanksgiving dinner (Kunde Estates Chardonnay and Four Vines The Maverick Zinfandel), decided she wanted to serve hand-picked American wines at her reception (which included a three-hour, sit-down dinner) instead of the the standard caterer plonk. She asked me to send her several American Chardonnays and Zinfandels that she could ask her caterer to source, that would pair with a Euro-Louisiana dinner of gumbo, crab cakes, filet mignon, and cheeses. She also asked me about the caterer's sparkling wine offering, Cristalino Cava, which I promptly advised her to stick with (it's a consistently good value bubbly).
The results were some ol' reliables: Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay and Bogle Old Vines California Zinfandel. The Chardonnay, with its tropical flavors, creamy-smooth texture, and crisp acidity was a decent match with the spicy duck and sausage gumbo, crab cake, and cheeses. The spicy, berry-vanilla Zin was an even better match for the gumbo, as well as the filet. For a reception dinner that required some reasonably-priced, representative, delicious U.S. wines that could be consumed in mass quantities, the Chateau Ste. Michelle and Bogle fit the bill.
We wrapped up our festive weekend with a classic Easter dinner with family and friends at the hacienda. Our Easter wines? The MacPhail Rose I'm finishing off now, and a 2008 Acacia Pinot Noir DeSoto Vineyard. The bottle of Acacia is a remnant from last summer's trip to Napa and Sonoma. I remember it well...sitting outside at the picnic table at Acacia winery...with a server who claimed to be a "super taster" (but refused a blind tasting challenge several times)...on a cool and windy afternoon. While we sampled A LOT of wines, and some details are...er...hazy, two wines still stand out: the 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard and DeSoto Vineyard Pinots. We couldn't take it and uncorked the Lone Tree months ago, but I've been coddling the DeSoto for a special occasion. Easter definitely qualifies.
Acacia Vineyard, located on the Napa side of the Carneros appellation, was acquired by the massive beverage conglomerate Diageo a few years ago. While the new owner has used the Acacia brand to push some massed-produced wines that aren't even made at the winery (see: "A" by Acacia), Acacia still makes some incredible single-vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are only available at the winery. The DeSoto Vineyard lies just East of the Acacia Vineyard, and enjoys the characteristic cool breezes and clay soils that give Carneros its identity. The wine smells of cherry, spice, and savory earth. Our bottle wasn't oxidized, but you can smell the ripeness of the wine. 2008 was an uneven year, climate-wise, but I find Carneros wines from this vintage are ripe and immediately approachable. The DeSoto was a mouthful of big, ripe fruit on the initial attack. Then, the classic loamy earth and mineral notes from Carneros take over. The fruit comes back on the finish, which was a little hot, probably due to the 14.8% alcohol, again indicative of a riper vintage. The "heat" from the alcohol kept the wine from being a memorable comrade to our meal of smoked ham, hashbrown casserole, and baked beans, but it was still pretty darn good. The rose also made for an excellent pairing, and was crisp and refreshing with our meal outdoors.
Stay tuned for more from my wine-derful weekend.
The Mrs. and I had the privilege of attending a relative's wedding in New Orleans - and all the associated events - over the weekend. It was one of the most interesting and enjoyable weekends for us in a while. My relative, the bride, was born and raised in Louisiana, but she has lived in Europe for eight years. Her groom is from Denmark, where the two met. During their courtship, the couple has lived in Copenhagen, Zurich and, most recently, Sao Paulo, Brazil...making friends along the way. The wedding guests and attendants were a fantastic 50-50 mix of foreigners and Southerners, and the ceremony and reception were a perfectly-designed blend of Southern U.S. and Danish traditions. The Big Man Upstairs also helped out on this holiest of weekends with some primo weather. Blue skies, temps in the low 80s, and nary a drop of humidity. For New Orleans in April, it doesn't get much better.
.JPG) |
| Just your usual Danish-Louisianian nuptials at the Montegut House in the French Quarter |
But this ain't one of those "wedding blogs". What gives?
Just setting the stage, my friends. To the wine!
First, we had an incredible meal at a newer restaurant with an interesting wine list, which will be the subject of my next blog...stay tuned.
And now...the rest of the wine story. My relative, after trying some of the California wines I brought to our family Thanksgiving dinner (Kunde Estates Chardonnay and Four Vines The Maverick Zinfandel), decided she wanted to serve hand-picked American wines at her reception (which included a three-hour, sit-down dinner) instead of the the standard caterer plonk. She asked me to send her several American Chardonnays and Zinfandels that she could ask her caterer to source, that would pair with a Euro-Louisiana dinner of gumbo, crab cakes, filet mignon, and cheeses. She also asked me about the caterer's sparkling wine offering, Cristalino Cava, which I promptly advised her to stick with (it's a consistently good value bubbly).
The results were some ol' reliables: Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay and Bogle Old Vines California Zinfandel. The Chardonnay, with its tropical flavors, creamy-smooth texture, and crisp acidity was a decent match with the spicy duck and sausage gumbo, crab cake, and cheeses. The spicy, berry-vanilla Zin was an even better match for the gumbo, as well as the filet. For a reception dinner that required some reasonably-priced, representative, delicious U.S. wines that could be consumed in mass quantities, the Chateau Ste. Michelle and Bogle fit the bill.
We wrapped up our festive weekend with a classic Easter dinner with family and friends at the hacienda. Our Easter wines? The MacPhail Rose I'm finishing off now, and a 2008 Acacia Pinot Noir DeSoto Vineyard. The bottle of Acacia is a remnant from last summer's trip to Napa and Sonoma. I remember it well...sitting outside at the picnic table at Acacia winery...with a server who claimed to be a "super taster" (but refused a blind tasting challenge several times)...on a cool and windy afternoon. While we sampled A LOT of wines, and some details are...er...hazy, two wines still stand out: the 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard and DeSoto Vineyard Pinots. We couldn't take it and uncorked the Lone Tree months ago, but I've been coddling the DeSoto for a special occasion. Easter definitely qualifies.
 |
| One tasty Easter vino |
Acacia Vineyard, located on the Napa side of the Carneros appellation, was acquired by the massive beverage conglomerate Diageo a few years ago. While the new owner has used the Acacia brand to push some massed-produced wines that aren't even made at the winery (see: "A" by Acacia), Acacia still makes some incredible single-vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are only available at the winery. The DeSoto Vineyard lies just East of the Acacia Vineyard, and enjoys the characteristic cool breezes and clay soils that give Carneros its identity. The wine smells of cherry, spice, and savory earth. Our bottle wasn't oxidized, but you can smell the ripeness of the wine. 2008 was an uneven year, climate-wise, but I find Carneros wines from this vintage are ripe and immediately approachable. The DeSoto was a mouthful of big, ripe fruit on the initial attack. Then, the classic loamy earth and mineral notes from Carneros take over. The fruit comes back on the finish, which was a little hot, probably due to the 14.8% alcohol, again indicative of a riper vintage. The "heat" from the alcohol kept the wine from being a memorable comrade to our meal of smoked ham, hashbrown casserole, and baked beans, but it was still pretty darn good. The rose also made for an excellent pairing, and was crisp and refreshing with our meal outdoors.
Stay tuned for more from my wine-derful weekend.
Sunday, April 1, 2012
Wine and Southern Cuisine: Barbecue Pork
For those familiar with contemporary Southern culture, you know our lives are largely governed by The Four F's: faith, family, football, and food. These societal pillars form the foundation of our daily lives; this blog touches on them all, and how wine can be complementary to them (yes, wine and Christian faith can go together - there are actually several parallels...that's another blog).
This "Wine and Southern Cuisine" series focuses on the "food" pillar, and which wines pair best with the choicest of classic Southern dishes. For me, this MUST include pork. It could be a societal pillar all to itself...or at least a flying buttress to the food pillar. Needless to say, I dig pig. Bacon for breakfast, ham for lunch, cracklins for snack, and pork roast/shoulder/ribs/you name it for dinner. Ahhhh....heaven. And probably my favorite pork dish is good ol' barbecue ("BBQ" for finger endurance). Before we go any further, don't even try to bring your weak BBQ beef argument in here. Not even close (take that, Texas).
Whether it's pork sausage, pulled pork shoulder, or fall-of-the-bone babyback ribs, you just can't beat that smokey-sweet-spicy flavor. I prefer mine smoked with a Memphis-style dry rub, and then absolutely bathed in a thick, sweet and spicy, tomato-based sauce. I know different folks like their BBQ different ways, but this is my blog. Start your own if you want to pair wine with that weird "white" BBQ sauce from Carolina or some such.
Anyway, there are a few wines that I find pair well with BBQ pork. My two favorites are California Zinfandel and Riesling. With its jammy, bold fruit flavors, and spicy undertones, Zinfandel is a nice accompaniment to the smokey-sticky-spicy-sweet flavors of BBQ. Its oft-reasonable price tag also makes it a wine you don't mind popping open to wash down your pulled pork sandwich, or share en mass with friends at a backyard BBQ. I like to find Zins with at least a touch of acidity to balance out the fruit and refresh the palate between lip smackings and finger lickings. Some of my favorite easy-to-find Cali Zins include Bogle, Buehler, Cline, Four Vines, Ravenswood, Valley of the Moon, Kenwood, Frei Brothers, and Sebastiani. If you forced me to pick a fave from this lineup, I would probably choose Four Vines The Maverick Amador County. It is quite rustic and complex, with ripe fruit and zesty spice, but a lively streak of acidity to keep the clean, peppery finish going. For fifteen bucks, it's a lot of wine.
Riesling is also a nice match with BBQ pork and, although it is an entirely different type of wine, its strengths lend themselves to BBQ glory in a very similar way to Zins. Riesling is light and delicate, with crisp apple and pear and zippy acidity. However, the better Rieslings also contain smoke, mineral, and pepper characteristics that match especially well with smoked pork. I like to find a slightly sweet style (off-dry) to match the sweetness in BBQ sauce, freeing up the savory notes to run wild. A good, off-dry Riesling really makes dry-rubbed pork sing. Like Zin, Riesling has several good, affordable examples from which to choose. Some of my favorites that your local market or wine shop might carry include Chateau Ste. Michelle (off-dry), Pacific Rim, Kung Fu Girl, Firestone, Covey Run, Columbia, Trimbach, Dr. Loosen, and Yalumba. None of these will cost you more than an Andrew Jackson (a voracious BBQ eater himself, I'm sure).
So, go enjoy your swine with wine! And don't forget the wet naps...
This "Wine and Southern Cuisine" series focuses on the "food" pillar, and which wines pair best with the choicest of classic Southern dishes. For me, this MUST include pork. It could be a societal pillar all to itself...or at least a flying buttress to the food pillar. Needless to say, I dig pig. Bacon for breakfast, ham for lunch, cracklins for snack, and pork roast/shoulder/ribs/you name it for dinner. Ahhhh....heaven. And probably my favorite pork dish is good ol' barbecue ("BBQ" for finger endurance). Before we go any further, don't even try to bring your weak BBQ beef argument in here. Not even close (take that, Texas).
Whether it's pork sausage, pulled pork shoulder, or fall-of-the-bone babyback ribs, you just can't beat that smokey-sweet-spicy flavor. I prefer mine smoked with a Memphis-style dry rub, and then absolutely bathed in a thick, sweet and spicy, tomato-based sauce. I know different folks like their BBQ different ways, but this is my blog. Start your own if you want to pair wine with that weird "white" BBQ sauce from Carolina or some such.
Anyway, there are a few wines that I find pair well with BBQ pork. My two favorites are California Zinfandel and Riesling. With its jammy, bold fruit flavors, and spicy undertones, Zinfandel is a nice accompaniment to the smokey-sticky-spicy-sweet flavors of BBQ. Its oft-reasonable price tag also makes it a wine you don't mind popping open to wash down your pulled pork sandwich, or share en mass with friends at a backyard BBQ. I like to find Zins with at least a touch of acidity to balance out the fruit and refresh the palate between lip smackings and finger lickings. Some of my favorite easy-to-find Cali Zins include Bogle, Buehler, Cline, Four Vines, Ravenswood, Valley of the Moon, Kenwood, Frei Brothers, and Sebastiani. If you forced me to pick a fave from this lineup, I would probably choose Four Vines The Maverick Amador County. It is quite rustic and complex, with ripe fruit and zesty spice, but a lively streak of acidity to keep the clean, peppery finish going. For fifteen bucks, it's a lot of wine.
Riesling is also a nice match with BBQ pork and, although it is an entirely different type of wine, its strengths lend themselves to BBQ glory in a very similar way to Zins. Riesling is light and delicate, with crisp apple and pear and zippy acidity. However, the better Rieslings also contain smoke, mineral, and pepper characteristics that match especially well with smoked pork. I like to find a slightly sweet style (off-dry) to match the sweetness in BBQ sauce, freeing up the savory notes to run wild. A good, off-dry Riesling really makes dry-rubbed pork sing. Like Zin, Riesling has several good, affordable examples from which to choose. Some of my favorites that your local market or wine shop might carry include Chateau Ste. Michelle (off-dry), Pacific Rim, Kung Fu Girl, Firestone, Covey Run, Columbia, Trimbach, Dr. Loosen, and Yalumba. None of these will cost you more than an Andrew Jackson (a voracious BBQ eater himself, I'm sure).
So, go enjoy your swine with wine! And don't forget the wet naps...
Sunday, March 25, 2012
The Mother Load
Just a few weeks ago, in my post entitled "Open Season", I was belly-aching a bit about the fact that not all of the wine clubs and mailing lists that I belong to had yet announced their spring releases. Well, the mother load has come in. If you'll continue to allow the hunting analogy, it's like when you are sitting in the duck blind all morning - just about to give up - and a black cloud of birds comes in right on top of you. All you can do is 1) hope you can have the guide's limit (if applicable), and 2) hope you have enough shells.
My orders from DiStefano and Williams Selyem have shipped. My order from Dehlinger arrived a few weeks ago (see my review of their 2009 Chardonnay - maybe the best I have ever tasted...no joke). And just last week, two of my favorites, MacPhail and Grey Stack, sent out their glorious spring releases. I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve. I wish it could all get here now, and my head may explode if it doesn't.
MacPhail and Grey Stack are both small, family operations (MacPhail did sell to Hess last year, but their keepin' it real), but quite different. MacPhail doesn't own any vineyards, but makes fantastic single vineyard and appellation wines - mostly Pinot Noirs - from primarily Anderson Valley and Sonoma Coast. Winemaker James MacPhail is a master at coaxing site characteristics out of his wines. From MacPhail, I ordered his 2010 Toulouse Vineyard (my perennial favorite), Pratt Vineyard, and The Flyer (a one-time arrangement with Inman, from their Olivet Grange Vineyard) Pinot Noirs, the Gap's Crown Chardonnay (their second vintage - first was awesome), and the 2011 Rose of Pinot Noir (perfect for our warm Spring/Summer days). The 2011 vintage in Sonoma and Mendocino was cool and rainy, with heat spikes at harvest. The result, according to MacPhail, is more restrained, nuanced wines with lower alcohols and higher acidity - food-friendly and built for aging.
Grey Stack is located in the cool, obscure Bennett Valley in Southeast Sonoma County. They make a variety of singe vineyard and appellation wines from their own estate vineyards and those of their friends. Their website is friggin' hilarious and I suggest checking it out: greystackcellars.com. On top of that, though, they make great wine. This year, I ordered their 2011 Rosemary's Block Sauvignon Blanc, 2011 Rose of Syrah & Greanache, 2010 Bennett Valley Cuvee Pinot Noir, and two Rhone-style blends: the 2010 The Folly Syrah-Grenache and the 2008 The Muldoon Syrah-Grenache Blend. Their wines are complex, but creamy-smooth and easy to drink. Affordable, too.
As I've said before, the great and exciting thing about these wine clubs and mailing lists is that these wines aren't available in our market. It's a shame, but it also makes me feel all warm and fuzzy when the shipments come in. What are your spring release wine club orders?
My orders from DiStefano and Williams Selyem have shipped. My order from Dehlinger arrived a few weeks ago (see my review of their 2009 Chardonnay - maybe the best I have ever tasted...no joke). And just last week, two of my favorites, MacPhail and Grey Stack, sent out their glorious spring releases. I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve. I wish it could all get here now, and my head may explode if it doesn't.
MacPhail and Grey Stack are both small, family operations (MacPhail did sell to Hess last year, but their keepin' it real), but quite different. MacPhail doesn't own any vineyards, but makes fantastic single vineyard and appellation wines - mostly Pinot Noirs - from primarily Anderson Valley and Sonoma Coast. Winemaker James MacPhail is a master at coaxing site characteristics out of his wines. From MacPhail, I ordered his 2010 Toulouse Vineyard (my perennial favorite), Pratt Vineyard, and The Flyer (a one-time arrangement with Inman, from their Olivet Grange Vineyard) Pinot Noirs, the Gap's Crown Chardonnay (their second vintage - first was awesome), and the 2011 Rose of Pinot Noir (perfect for our warm Spring/Summer days). The 2011 vintage in Sonoma and Mendocino was cool and rainy, with heat spikes at harvest. The result, according to MacPhail, is more restrained, nuanced wines with lower alcohols and higher acidity - food-friendly and built for aging.
Grey Stack is located in the cool, obscure Bennett Valley in Southeast Sonoma County. They make a variety of singe vineyard and appellation wines from their own estate vineyards and those of their friends. Their website is friggin' hilarious and I suggest checking it out: greystackcellars.com. On top of that, though, they make great wine. This year, I ordered their 2011 Rosemary's Block Sauvignon Blanc, 2011 Rose of Syrah & Greanache, 2010 Bennett Valley Cuvee Pinot Noir, and two Rhone-style blends: the 2010 The Folly Syrah-Grenache and the 2008 The Muldoon Syrah-Grenache Blend. Their wines are complex, but creamy-smooth and easy to drink. Affordable, too.
As I've said before, the great and exciting thing about these wine clubs and mailing lists is that these wines aren't available in our market. It's a shame, but it also makes me feel all warm and fuzzy when the shipments come in. What are your spring release wine club orders?
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
Wine and Southern Cuisine: Oysters on the Half Shell
When I started this blog, one of my objectives was to show how well wine fits in with our culture, in the hopes that it will begin to be acknowledged as a worthy participant. Seriously...I like sweet tea, but how did it trump wine in the Southern beverage pecking order? So, I'm starting a new series of posts called "Wine and Southern Cuisine" where I will, every once in a while, write about "classic" Southern dishes and wine pairings to go with them. Of course, there is no objective basis for which dishes I deem "classic", but I was born and raised below the Mason-Dixon, so I feel somewhat qualified. For today...oysters.
Even before my college days of quarter oysters at The Chimes, I've fancied the delectable bivalves from our Southern waters. Now, oysters certainly aren't exclusive to the South (in fact I just had some fantastic Cape Cod oysters while in Boston last week) but, as usual, I think we do them better than anyone else. The mollusks can be prepared in a number of ways, from chargrilled to fried, even gussied up as Bienville or Rockefeller, but I prefer them in their birthday suit.
Much like wine, raw oysters can communicate a sense of place. Sweet, briny, muddy, large, or small, the traits of the oyster can give a clear indication of where they're from. Suck 'em straight out of the shell with their own liquor, or plop them on a cracker with some kicked-up cocktail sauce...oysters make a great snack, appetizer, or entire meal...and they are only made better with the right wines.
Before I start making wine pairing recommendations, let me disclose that my philosophy when it comes to matching food and wine tends to lean towards the "find a good/great wine and everything else will come together" camp. I realize there are proclaimed arts and sciences to pairing wine with food, but I think especially good (and definitely great) wines will shine through, except in the rare instances where a dish totally overpowers the grape (think: braised short ribs in a rich gravy and Pinot Grigio).
With that said, there are several wines that pair nicely with raw oysters, most of them being crisp, lively whites. My personal favorites are Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wine. Sauvignon Blancs, or SBs (on account of my fingers are getting tired) are generally light and bright, with zippy acidity, along with citrus and herbal notes. I find SBs, along with sparkling wines, have an ability to really bring out and sharpen the sweet-salty flavors from the oysters, the refreshing acidity kind of cleansing the palette and accentuating the textures of the bivalves. Sparkling wines can be substantially more varied in their styles, but generally (I find) become a bit sweeter when immediately proceeded or followed by a slurp of oyster, only to wipe the palette clean with acidity and bubbles. Sparkling wines made from grapes grown in limestone soils go even further, recalling the connection between the chalky flavors and textures in the wine and as those from the oyster shells (which is where limestone comes from).
Of widely available, Sauvignon Blancs, I prefer those from New Zealand. Its cool climate manifests complexity in a somewhat predictable style that usually displays tropical fruit up front, followed by herbal/grassy flavors, finishing clean with lemon-lime citrus and racy acidity. Brancott, Mohua, and Nobilo are three of my favorites in the under-$15 range. Cloudy Bay and Whitehaven are excellent and dependable options in the under-$25 range. There are plenty of other good, affordable, non-New Zealand SBs that are widely available, such as Bogle, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Joel Gott, Vina Montes, and Veramonte.
Again, there are several good, affordable, widely-available options in sparkling wine. Domaine Chandon's Brut Classic (under $25) always comes to mind because perhaps my first experience pairing oysters with bubbly happened at that winery. Sipping bubbly and slurping oysters out on their patio in Napa will endear anyone. Domaine Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Brut is another good one. If you are willing to spend a little more and/or look for them, Argyle Brut Willamette Valley, Ceja Sparkling Brut, and Moet Imperial are excellent choices. Seriously, it's worth it.
Next up: BBQ pork. Don't know when I'll weave in the next "Wine and Southern Cuisine" post, but when I do, I'll be digging on the swine.
What do you enjoy drinking with oysters (beer is a perfectly acceptable answer)? What are your favorite Southern dishes? Wine pairings?
Even before my college days of quarter oysters at The Chimes, I've fancied the delectable bivalves from our Southern waters. Now, oysters certainly aren't exclusive to the South (in fact I just had some fantastic Cape Cod oysters while in Boston last week) but, as usual, I think we do them better than anyone else. The mollusks can be prepared in a number of ways, from chargrilled to fried, even gussied up as Bienville or Rockefeller, but I prefer them in their birthday suit.
Much like wine, raw oysters can communicate a sense of place. Sweet, briny, muddy, large, or small, the traits of the oyster can give a clear indication of where they're from. Suck 'em straight out of the shell with their own liquor, or plop them on a cracker with some kicked-up cocktail sauce...oysters make a great snack, appetizer, or entire meal...and they are only made better with the right wines.
Before I start making wine pairing recommendations, let me disclose that my philosophy when it comes to matching food and wine tends to lean towards the "find a good/great wine and everything else will come together" camp. I realize there are proclaimed arts and sciences to pairing wine with food, but I think especially good (and definitely great) wines will shine through, except in the rare instances where a dish totally overpowers the grape (think: braised short ribs in a rich gravy and Pinot Grigio).
With that said, there are several wines that pair nicely with raw oysters, most of them being crisp, lively whites. My personal favorites are Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wine. Sauvignon Blancs, or SBs (on account of my fingers are getting tired) are generally light and bright, with zippy acidity, along with citrus and herbal notes. I find SBs, along with sparkling wines, have an ability to really bring out and sharpen the sweet-salty flavors from the oysters, the refreshing acidity kind of cleansing the palette and accentuating the textures of the bivalves. Sparkling wines can be substantially more varied in their styles, but generally (I find) become a bit sweeter when immediately proceeded or followed by a slurp of oyster, only to wipe the palette clean with acidity and bubbles. Sparkling wines made from grapes grown in limestone soils go even further, recalling the connection between the chalky flavors and textures in the wine and as those from the oyster shells (which is where limestone comes from).
Of widely available, Sauvignon Blancs, I prefer those from New Zealand. Its cool climate manifests complexity in a somewhat predictable style that usually displays tropical fruit up front, followed by herbal/grassy flavors, finishing clean with lemon-lime citrus and racy acidity. Brancott, Mohua, and Nobilo are three of my favorites in the under-$15 range. Cloudy Bay and Whitehaven are excellent and dependable options in the under-$25 range. There are plenty of other good, affordable, non-New Zealand SBs that are widely available, such as Bogle, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Joel Gott, Vina Montes, and Veramonte.
Again, there are several good, affordable, widely-available options in sparkling wine. Domaine Chandon's Brut Classic (under $25) always comes to mind because perhaps my first experience pairing oysters with bubbly happened at that winery. Sipping bubbly and slurping oysters out on their patio in Napa will endear anyone. Domaine Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Brut is another good one. If you are willing to spend a little more and/or look for them, Argyle Brut Willamette Valley, Ceja Sparkling Brut, and Moet Imperial are excellent choices. Seriously, it's worth it.
Next up: BBQ pork. Don't know when I'll weave in the next "Wine and Southern Cuisine" post, but when I do, I'll be digging on the swine.
What do you enjoy drinking with oysters (beer is a perfectly acceptable answer)? What are your favorite Southern dishes? Wine pairings?
Sunday, March 11, 2012
Wine Review: 2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley
Wow.
That was the first word out of my mouth after my initial sip of Dehlinger's just-released 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley. This is my first wine as a member of the winery's mailing list, having just received my spring shipment last week.
Dehlinger Winery enjoys a stellar reputation for making fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel. One of their Pinots, the 2008 Russian River Valley, made Wine Spectator's "Top 100" last year, coming in at #5. Not bad for a small, family operation.
Tom Dehlinger started his winery, located in the Russian River Valley, in 1975 and has been kicking butt ever since. His wines are all estate grown and produced, meaning they grow the grapes and make the wine (it's rarer than you might think). As you might guess, knowing the vineyard characteristics and the fruit on the vine during a vintage only gives Tom greater insight during the winemaking process. His hands-on, gentle winemaking style let's his incredible fruit speak for itself, while also allowing the unique characteristics of his vineyards to show through. The 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is an excellent example of Dehlinger's work. The wine is aged in French oak barrels and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, which converts the tart malic acid to the creamier lactic acid. This creates a fuller wine with what many associate as "buttery" characteristics.
2009 was a pretty darn good growing season in Sonoma, and the vintage is turning out some great wines. The Chardonnay showed the characteristics of the long, even growing season in a cool spot like Dehlinger's estate. The wine had the near-perfect balance of rich fruit, lively acidity, and deep complexity. The first thing that struck me was the nose. Complex apple, spice, and honey aromas immediately filled up the glass. The initial flavors from the wine, called the "attack", were awesome. Big lemon custard, creme brulee, kettle corn notes were the first to strike, followed by apple pie, vanilla, and mineral. The texture of the Chardonnay is truly unique. Creamy, almost oily, it coats the mouth...and then dries up quickly as the almost-zippy acidity takes over. No kidding...the finish on this wines continues for 2-3 minutes. Superb.
The 2009 Chardonnay was an excellent partner to a lettuce wedge salad with homemade bleu cheese dressing and bacon, but honestly, this wine steals the show. It is definitely worthy of its own stage.
You won't find Dehlinger wines in the store, and chances are slim you will see it on a restaurant wine list outside of California. As awarded as Dehlinger is, they really do maintain a small, casual, family operation, and you can simply call them up to see if there is any wine still available for purchase. Or you can join their mailing list. The 2009 Chardonnay has not been reviewed yet by the major publications and/or critics, but my guess is it will receive some big-time scores and, once that happens, it will be bought up faster than booze at an SEC tailgate. My point is, if you want to try this wine, get it while you still can...if you still can. My order will be placed tomorrow.
2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley. A steal at $37.50. I can't wait to try the 2009 Pinots and Claret that came in my spring shipment. Makes me all tingly just thinking about it.
That was the first word out of my mouth after my initial sip of Dehlinger's just-released 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley. This is my first wine as a member of the winery's mailing list, having just received my spring shipment last week.
Dehlinger Winery enjoys a stellar reputation for making fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel. One of their Pinots, the 2008 Russian River Valley, made Wine Spectator's "Top 100" last year, coming in at #5. Not bad for a small, family operation.
Tom Dehlinger started his winery, located in the Russian River Valley, in 1975 and has been kicking butt ever since. His wines are all estate grown and produced, meaning they grow the grapes and make the wine (it's rarer than you might think). As you might guess, knowing the vineyard characteristics and the fruit on the vine during a vintage only gives Tom greater insight during the winemaking process. His hands-on, gentle winemaking style let's his incredible fruit speak for itself, while also allowing the unique characteristics of his vineyards to show through. The 2009 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is an excellent example of Dehlinger's work. The wine is aged in French oak barrels and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, which converts the tart malic acid to the creamier lactic acid. This creates a fuller wine with what many associate as "buttery" characteristics.
2009 was a pretty darn good growing season in Sonoma, and the vintage is turning out some great wines. The Chardonnay showed the characteristics of the long, even growing season in a cool spot like Dehlinger's estate. The wine had the near-perfect balance of rich fruit, lively acidity, and deep complexity. The first thing that struck me was the nose. Complex apple, spice, and honey aromas immediately filled up the glass. The initial flavors from the wine, called the "attack", were awesome. Big lemon custard, creme brulee, kettle corn notes were the first to strike, followed by apple pie, vanilla, and mineral. The texture of the Chardonnay is truly unique. Creamy, almost oily, it coats the mouth...and then dries up quickly as the almost-zippy acidity takes over. No kidding...the finish on this wines continues for 2-3 minutes. Superb.
The 2009 Chardonnay was an excellent partner to a lettuce wedge salad with homemade bleu cheese dressing and bacon, but honestly, this wine steals the show. It is definitely worthy of its own stage.
You won't find Dehlinger wines in the store, and chances are slim you will see it on a restaurant wine list outside of California. As awarded as Dehlinger is, they really do maintain a small, casual, family operation, and you can simply call them up to see if there is any wine still available for purchase. Or you can join their mailing list. The 2009 Chardonnay has not been reviewed yet by the major publications and/or critics, but my guess is it will receive some big-time scores and, once that happens, it will be bought up faster than booze at an SEC tailgate. My point is, if you want to try this wine, get it while you still can...if you still can. My order will be placed tomorrow.
2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley. A steal at $37.50. I can't wait to try the 2009 Pinots and Claret that came in my spring shipment. Makes me all tingly just thinking about it.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
A Few Good Wines
In his most recent weekly column at winespectator.com, the always-interesting Matt Kramer writes about wine etiquette, giving various scenarios in which he either did or didn't perform "properly" asking, "Is there a universal wine etiquette?".
One such scenario was at a dinner where the host (wisely) asked Kramer to select the wines for the table. The quandary: how much is the host expecting to spend, and what are they expecting of you?
Interesting read. And it got me thinking about a question I always hear from friends: "What is a good bottle of red/white that I can find for ____ bucks or less at a restaurant?".
There are three criteria for wine in that question. First, it must be "good". When asked this question, I self-define good as consistent, reliable, enjoyably quaffable, yet at least mildly complex. In other words, a wine that will make you think - if even for a moment - about how good it is, not just some gluggerific fruit bomb.
Next, the wine(s) must be accessible. Hearing about a great wine is fun...until you discover that you'll never get to try it because it's either extremely limited and highly allocated, or just flat not available in your market. No, for this exercise I'm thinking of wines that are widely available on restaurant wine lists, if not in your corner shop.
Lastly, it must be affordable. I realize this is a relative term, but to the average Joe in every situation but the most special, I'm thinking under $50 per bottle at a restaurant.
If you're at a restaurant and are saddled - by your own decision or someone else's - with selecting the wine for the table, I have a few go-to suggestions that you may find helpful:
What are your go-to restaurant wines for under $50 a bottle?
One such scenario was at a dinner where the host (wisely) asked Kramer to select the wines for the table. The quandary: how much is the host expecting to spend, and what are they expecting of you?
Interesting read. And it got me thinking about a question I always hear from friends: "What is a good bottle of red/white that I can find for ____ bucks or less at a restaurant?".
There are three criteria for wine in that question. First, it must be "good". When asked this question, I self-define good as consistent, reliable, enjoyably quaffable, yet at least mildly complex. In other words, a wine that will make you think - if even for a moment - about how good it is, not just some gluggerific fruit bomb.
Next, the wine(s) must be accessible. Hearing about a great wine is fun...until you discover that you'll never get to try it because it's either extremely limited and highly allocated, or just flat not available in your market. No, for this exercise I'm thinking of wines that are widely available on restaurant wine lists, if not in your corner shop.
Lastly, it must be affordable. I realize this is a relative term, but to the average Joe in every situation but the most special, I'm thinking under $50 per bottle at a restaurant.
If you're at a restaurant and are saddled - by your own decision or someone else's - with selecting the wine for the table, I have a few go-to suggestions that you may find helpful:
- If the restaurant has a sommelier, ask him or her for a recommendation. Now, I realize most dining establishments (in the South anyway) don't have sommeliers aplenty, but if they do, give them the style of wine and price range you are looking for, and they will usually deliver and then some. It's also fun to just have them surprise you, and a great way to learn about new or obscure wines.
- Look for the following labels. For sparkling wine: Domaine Ste. Michelle, Gloria Ferrer, La Marca, or Roederer. For whites: Cakebread, Conundrum, Kim Crawford, Frei Brothers, J. Lohr, Nobilo, Santa Margherita, Sonoma-Cutrer, and Sterling. For reds: Belle Glos, Beringer (Knights Valley), Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest, Estancia, Frei Brothers, Hess, La Crema, and Markham. It's all about knowing your producer. The aforementioned wineries consistently produce good wines (both to me and the critics), and can be found at restaurants for under 50 bones a bottle. A quick search of the published wine lists at a national casual dining chain, a local fine dining restaurant, and a national fine dining restaurant affirmed their availability.
- As for what type of wine to order, I follow three simple rules. If ordering wine as an aperitif and/or to accompany cheeses or light appetizers, go with a bubbly or Sauvignon Blanc. If your table contains a variety of tastes and, subsequently, a variety of entrees, order a Pinot Noir or Zinfandel. And finally, if you know everyone is having lighter chicken or fish dishes (maybe with butter or cream-based sauce), order a Chardonnay. Likewise, order a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon if everyone's meal will consist of hearty ingredients like beef and roasted potatoes.
What are your go-to restaurant wines for under $50 a bottle?
Monday, March 5, 2012
Open Season
Ahhhhh...it's springtime here in South Louisiana, and that means LSU baseball, crawfish boils, Abita strawberry lager, and Lent (just...33...more...days...). For wine enthusiasts, spring is also a time when many wineries offer their latest releases to their wine clubs or mailing lists. It's a veritable open season and, like duck hunting in Stuttgart, the bounty can almost be too much to handle. I have had to learn to be a "sportsman" (if you remember those old hunter's ed videos), not shooting at everything out there, but picking my targets carefully.
I think wine clubs and mailing lists are great for wineries and wines that I couldn't easily get otherwise, meaning they are extremely limited or just not available in my market. Most artisan wineries conduct two major releases: a spring release of predominately appellation wines (i.e. Russian River Valley), and a fall release of predominantly single-vineyard or proprietary blend wines. Appellation wines are usually a little less expensive and a bit more approachable. Single-vineyard wines and fancy blends are usually more concentrated and need a little more time in the barrel and/or bottle. If there is a waiting list for a wine club you are after, you are usually more likely to get an allocation in a spring release (though I'm still waiting on you, Kosta Browne).
It is pretty easy to get on most wineries' mailing lists - usually as simple as supplying an address or email online. Some enroll you immediately. Others have a "waiting list". Either way, once you are in, expect at least bi-annual newsletters filled with colorful vineyard photos and lots of hyperbole. As is always the case, know your producer so that you don't get caught up in the winemaker's or proprietor's "remarks" about biodynamic farming, aging on the lees, or high notes of old shoes dipped in cranberry sauce. If they make good wine, they make good wine. Some are just more verbose than others. The real fun comes when you strike up a relationship with the folks and actually know what they are talking about, or better yet can call them up and ask them about their latest release.
Of those clubs/lists that I participate in, Williams Selyem, Lucia, DiStefano, Siduri & Novy, and Dehlinger (pronounced "day-linger"...which is fun to say) have already announced their spring releases. I'm still waiting to hear from the likes of MacPhail, Grey Stack, Pine Ridge, and Mueller. Most of these wineries are releasing their 2010s, which should be interesting. We were out in Napa/Sonoma in November 2010, just after harvest, and most winemakers were cautiously optimistic about the vintage. It was a cool year, with intense bouts of heat and rain just before harvest.
If the early results are any indication, 2010 is going to turn out some mighty fine wines. Novy's 2010 RRV Zinfandel and Four Mile Creek red and white blends are delicious. Crisp and complex, indicative of a cooler vintage. My friends at MacPhail also told me recently that their 2010 Pinot Noirs are showing very nicely as well.
As my shipments start rolling in, I think it fun to taste the latest wines against the previous release(s) to get a feel for the characteristics of the vintage (those identified in appellation blends will likely be amplified in the single-vineyard wines). Plus, it's another excuse to drink good juice with friends.
Enjoy the sporting fun of wine drinking during this "open season". To which wine clubs and/or mailing lists do you belong?
I think wine clubs and mailing lists are great for wineries and wines that I couldn't easily get otherwise, meaning they are extremely limited or just not available in my market. Most artisan wineries conduct two major releases: a spring release of predominately appellation wines (i.e. Russian River Valley), and a fall release of predominantly single-vineyard or proprietary blend wines. Appellation wines are usually a little less expensive and a bit more approachable. Single-vineyard wines and fancy blends are usually more concentrated and need a little more time in the barrel and/or bottle. If there is a waiting list for a wine club you are after, you are usually more likely to get an allocation in a spring release (though I'm still waiting on you, Kosta Browne).
It is pretty easy to get on most wineries' mailing lists - usually as simple as supplying an address or email online. Some enroll you immediately. Others have a "waiting list". Either way, once you are in, expect at least bi-annual newsletters filled with colorful vineyard photos and lots of hyperbole. As is always the case, know your producer so that you don't get caught up in the winemaker's or proprietor's "remarks" about biodynamic farming, aging on the lees, or high notes of old shoes dipped in cranberry sauce. If they make good wine, they make good wine. Some are just more verbose than others. The real fun comes when you strike up a relationship with the folks and actually know what they are talking about, or better yet can call them up and ask them about their latest release.
Of those clubs/lists that I participate in, Williams Selyem, Lucia, DiStefano, Siduri & Novy, and Dehlinger (pronounced "day-linger"...which is fun to say) have already announced their spring releases. I'm still waiting to hear from the likes of MacPhail, Grey Stack, Pine Ridge, and Mueller. Most of these wineries are releasing their 2010s, which should be interesting. We were out in Napa/Sonoma in November 2010, just after harvest, and most winemakers were cautiously optimistic about the vintage. It was a cool year, with intense bouts of heat and rain just before harvest.
If the early results are any indication, 2010 is going to turn out some mighty fine wines. Novy's 2010 RRV Zinfandel and Four Mile Creek red and white blends are delicious. Crisp and complex, indicative of a cooler vintage. My friends at MacPhail also told me recently that their 2010 Pinot Noirs are showing very nicely as well.
As my shipments start rolling in, I think it fun to taste the latest wines against the previous release(s) to get a feel for the characteristics of the vintage (those identified in appellation blends will likely be amplified in the single-vineyard wines). Plus, it's another excuse to drink good juice with friends.
Enjoy the sporting fun of wine drinking during this "open season". To which wine clubs and/or mailing lists do you belong?
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Red-Blooded, Southern...Champagne-Drinker?
I like sparkling wine. There, I said it. I'm a man. From the South. And I like the bubbly. To some of you, this may sound laughable. You are fools.
Sparkling wine is wine after all, not just some ubiquitous, novelty drink for celebrations. Around here, it's enjoyment is usually reserved for New Year's Eve and football season, where it is mixed with orange juice or some other fruity liquid to create a "festive" cocktail at tailgates.
That's all fine and good, but sparkling wine can be just as nuanced and interesting as still wine. It's usually more versatile, too. Need a bevy to spruce up those scrambled eggs? Grab a sparkler. Want the perfect aperitif to freshen the palate? Bubbles. Looking for something to accompany those soft cheeses? Oysters? Crab cakes? Chicken wings? Cake? You guessed it.
But "champagne" is so expensive...
No, it's not. In fact, if you see "champagne" on the bottle and it's not from the famed region of France, it's probably plonk. Alas, there are several (mostly New World) affordable options with which to begin your appreciation of "every day" sparkling wine. Look for these producers: Gloria Ferrer, Domaine Carneros, Flying Goat, Korbel, Barefoot, Scharffenberger, Roederer Estate, Mumm Napa, Domaine Chandon, Domaine Ste. Michelle, Gruet, Segura Viudas, Louis Perdrier, and Monmousseau.
When actually enjoying sparkling wine (as opposed to glugging it at a party), first, stick your nose in it. Aromas may range from apples, lemons, and pears to biscuits, cinnamon toast, and sea breeze. Likewise, on the palate, sparklers can be bright, crisp, and lively with white fruits, citrus, and brine. Or, they can be rich, robust, even succulent with tropical fruits, biscuit dough, apple pie and roasted nut flavors. Pay attention to the distinctions amongst these wines, appreciate the different regions from which they come, and think of them just as you would any other wine - a worthwhile companion to most any occassion.
Special shout out to my pal, Bryce Harrison, up in Arkansas for my shiny new logo. Thanks, bro.
Cheers.
Sparkling wine is wine after all, not just some ubiquitous, novelty drink for celebrations. Around here, it's enjoyment is usually reserved for New Year's Eve and football season, where it is mixed with orange juice or some other fruity liquid to create a "festive" cocktail at tailgates.
That's all fine and good, but sparkling wine can be just as nuanced and interesting as still wine. It's usually more versatile, too. Need a bevy to spruce up those scrambled eggs? Grab a sparkler. Want the perfect aperitif to freshen the palate? Bubbles. Looking for something to accompany those soft cheeses? Oysters? Crab cakes? Chicken wings? Cake? You guessed it.
But "champagne" is so expensive...
No, it's not. In fact, if you see "champagne" on the bottle and it's not from the famed region of France, it's probably plonk. Alas, there are several (mostly New World) affordable options with which to begin your appreciation of "every day" sparkling wine. Look for these producers: Gloria Ferrer, Domaine Carneros, Flying Goat, Korbel, Barefoot, Scharffenberger, Roederer Estate, Mumm Napa, Domaine Chandon, Domaine Ste. Michelle, Gruet, Segura Viudas, Louis Perdrier, and Monmousseau.
When actually enjoying sparkling wine (as opposed to glugging it at a party), first, stick your nose in it. Aromas may range from apples, lemons, and pears to biscuits, cinnamon toast, and sea breeze. Likewise, on the palate, sparklers can be bright, crisp, and lively with white fruits, citrus, and brine. Or, they can be rich, robust, even succulent with tropical fruits, biscuit dough, apple pie and roasted nut flavors. Pay attention to the distinctions amongst these wines, appreciate the different regions from which they come, and think of them just as you would any other wine - a worthwhile companion to most any occassion.
 | ||
| A frosty bottle of Domaine Carneros Brut catches | some rays |
Special shout out to my pal, Bryce Harrison, up in Arkansas for my shiny new logo. Thanks, bro.
Cheers.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Them Two English Fellars Is Funny!
Watching the Oscar's and it reminds me of a new show (new to me, anyway) that I am delighted to share.
Oz Clarke and James May are a bit like Britain's odd couple. I don't know any of their back story, but I stumbled across a show (and, subsequently, a youtube series) which follows these two blokes as they travel California's wine country in search of a keener understanding of "New World" wine. Hilarity ensues in Oz and James' Big Wine Adventure.
Oz Clarke is a well-respected wine writer in Britain. James May is a mop-headed motorhead and host of several musle-car shows both here and across the pond. James is hell-bent on finding inexpensive, accessible, decent wine (which he claims is difficult to do in Britain - sound familiar?), and Oz is on an equally relentless quest to expose James to the nuances of winemaking, and instill in him an appreciation for the people, places, and time that combine to create great wine (which is often posh and expensive according to James).
The result is a hoot. The two Brits rent an RV, drink loads of wine (and document some of their more hammered moments), rub elbows with some of the greatest California winemakers, and cook up ridiculous challenges to test each others' wine acumen. Check it out:
Now, besides the pure entertainment this series provides, I believe it is also educational and there are more than a few parallels between (especially) James' pursuits and those of the casual Southern wine drinker. Apparently, there is an earlier series where the couple tackles France, and also a book further detailing their exploits. I will be perusing both. Enjoy.
Oz Clarke and James May are a bit like Britain's odd couple. I don't know any of their back story, but I stumbled across a show (and, subsequently, a youtube series) which follows these two blokes as they travel California's wine country in search of a keener understanding of "New World" wine. Hilarity ensues in Oz and James' Big Wine Adventure.
Oz Clarke is a well-respected wine writer in Britain. James May is a mop-headed motorhead and host of several musle-car shows both here and across the pond. James is hell-bent on finding inexpensive, accessible, decent wine (which he claims is difficult to do in Britain - sound familiar?), and Oz is on an equally relentless quest to expose James to the nuances of winemaking, and instill in him an appreciation for the people, places, and time that combine to create great wine (which is often posh and expensive according to James).
The result is a hoot. The two Brits rent an RV, drink loads of wine (and document some of their more hammered moments), rub elbows with some of the greatest California winemakers, and cook up ridiculous challenges to test each others' wine acumen. Check it out:
Now, besides the pure entertainment this series provides, I believe it is also educational and there are more than a few parallels between (especially) James' pursuits and those of the casual Southern wine drinker. Apparently, there is an earlier series where the couple tackles France, and also a book further detailing their exploits. I will be perusing both. Enjoy.
Friday, February 24, 2012
The Southern Man's Guide to Napa and Sonoma, Part II: An Open Letter of Confession
Dearest Napa:
I have a confession to make: there's someone else. No, no...it's not you. You're great. Beautiful, successful...classy. You always deliver and you seem to always know who you are. But that's just it.
This new gal, Sonoma...she's unpredictable...exciting. She has some absolutely striking characteristics, but also some dodgy parts. She can be hot (Dry Creek Valley) or cool (Carneros), rugged (Sonoma Coast) or refined (Sonoma Valley). And that's the fun of her - you never know what you're gonna get.
Sonoma is just as likely to introduce you to grand estates with critically-acclaimed wines and winemakers (see: Jordan, Williams Selyem) as she is to show you around a funky, artisinal winery behind someone's house (see: MacPhail). And they're all great. She may serve you a biodynamic and/or organic Cab (a la Benziger, Kunde), a rustic Zin (Rafanelli, Stryker), a delicate Pinot (Mueller, Siduri, Lynmar), a lively white (Fort Ross, Merry Edwards, Nicholson Ranch), or a silky bubbly (Iron Horse, Korbel, Gloria Ferrer) to wash down a home-grown, hand-crafted meal from Applewood Inn, Farmhouse, or Dry Creek Kitchen.
She's not a party-er (locals are known to refer to her as "Slow-noma"), but she can have a good time. Sonoma loves a good meal (HBG, The Fig Cafe), a local craft brew (Lagunitas), and watching the sun set outdoors around a fire while re-capping the day's wine-stained adventures. She can be quite the eclectic host, with luxurious accommodations (Farmhouse, Fairmont Sonoma, Hotel Healdsburg) and quaint dwellings (Applewood Inn, Inman Farmhouse, Bell House). You will always be treated well.
So, sorry Napa. Sonoma's pretty much everything you're not...and that's a good thing. Yeah, maybe some day I'll come crawling back, but for now I'll take Sonoma's diversity and experimental spirit over your respectable predictability. It does feel a little like leaving the prom queen for cute-but-quirky-and-maybe-hiding-some-serious-inner-hotness girl next door, but it's a gamble I'm willing to take.
Don't worry, Napa. I'll still call next time I'm in your neck of the woods.
I have a confession to make: there's someone else. No, no...it's not you. You're great. Beautiful, successful...classy. You always deliver and you seem to always know who you are. But that's just it.
This new gal, Sonoma...she's unpredictable...exciting. She has some absolutely striking characteristics, but also some dodgy parts. She can be hot (Dry Creek Valley) or cool (Carneros), rugged (Sonoma Coast) or refined (Sonoma Valley). And that's the fun of her - you never know what you're gonna get.
 |
| Nicholson Ranch, apparently serving gold this day |
 |
| Jordan and Macphail: very different, very good |
She's not a party-er (locals are known to refer to her as "Slow-noma"), but she can have a good time. Sonoma loves a good meal (HBG, The Fig Cafe), a local craft brew (Lagunitas), and watching the sun set outdoors around a fire while re-capping the day's wine-stained adventures. She can be quite the eclectic host, with luxurious accommodations (Farmhouse, Fairmont Sonoma, Hotel Healdsburg) and quaint dwellings (Applewood Inn, Inman Farmhouse, Bell House). You will always be treated well.
The funky Bell House in Petaluma, shown here
with this balla's rad rental car
So, sorry Napa. Sonoma's pretty much everything you're not...and that's a good thing. Yeah, maybe some day I'll come crawling back, but for now I'll take Sonoma's diversity and experimental spirit over your respectable predictability. It does feel a little like leaving the prom queen for cute-but-quirky-and-maybe-hiding-some-serious-inner-hotness girl next door, but it's a gamble I'm willing to take.
 |
| HBG in swanky Healdsburg. Mmm...truffle fries |
Don't worry, Napa. I'll still call next time I'm in your neck of the woods.
Sunday, February 19, 2012
The Southern Man's Guide to Napa and Sonoma
For the past several years, the Mrs. and I have taken a trip to Napa and/or Sonoma for rest, relaxation, food, fun and vino. As a result, we are often asked for recommendations as to where to stay, eat, drink, etc. whilst in those areas. Well, here it is. This wine geek's "perfect" trip to Napa and Sonoma. But first...a new discovery.
At a dinner party amongst friends last night, someone brought a bottle of Pinot Noir that was new to me: 2009 Del Dotta Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Cinghiale Vineyard. The wine opened with a burst of cherry-vanilla on the nose and the palate, then sharpened to a savory, silky finish. We enjoyed it as an aperitif, but I imagine it would be at least equally good with a meal. I did a little research and, apparently, Del Dotto is a pretty cool winery to visit as well (how 'bout that segway).
Now, back to the itineraries. My first recommendation is to do your research. Be open to new things, but plan some things you know you'll enjoy, too. In this age of blogs, mobile apps, and the like, it's easy to get lots of recommendations and reviews very quickly. Just don't put too much stock into what "winezilla" from Omaha says. It's a free-for-all out there.
Napa Valley:
Many consider Napa Valley to be the best wine-growing region in the U.S., and it's easy to see why. Such a concentration of great wineries could only result from near-perfect growing conditions for some of the world's most high profile grapes, namely Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Where to stay: Doesn't really matter. Just about everything is located on or in between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. I say find a place somewhat centrally located in the Valley, like Yountville or Rutherford, so that you can easily explore half of the valley in a day without having to drive too far.
Where to eat: There are a ton of great restaurants in Napa, and they range from uber-luxe to roadside stand. Our all-time favorites are more on the casual side. I love the tiny, funky Bounty Hunter in downtown Napa (city). I know...we Southerners think we know BBQ and, believe me, I consider myself a connoisseur, but this stuff is really good, and they have over 100 wines by the glass, and they'll help you pair it with BBQ(!?!). Heaven. My wife loves Oakville Grocery right off of Hwy 29. They have fresh, handmade sandwiches and the like, and you can bring your meal outside to one of their picnic tables and enjoy it with a newly-purchased wine in the great outdoors. A fantastic lunch spot. Of course, there's French Laundry (which we have never been to), Ad Hoc, Mustard's, Bistro Jeanty, Rutherford Grill, Gott's Roadside, and many, many more.
Where to drink: There are WAY too many great wineries/tasting rooms to spend any amount of time detailing. Here are some of our faves, working South to North: Domaine Carneros, Acacia, McKenzie-Mueller, Etude, Ceja, Domaine Chandon, Miner Family, Provenance, Hewitt, Alpha Omega and Duckhorn. Others that we have not yet visited, but enjoy their wines: Elyse, Pine Ridge, Jarvis, Buehler, Amizetta, Chappellet, Round Pond, Quintessa, Del Dotto, and Saintsbury.
Whew! I'm tuckered out. We'll tackle Sonoma County in Thursday's blog. Feel free to share your recommendations for "must-do's" in Napa.
At a dinner party amongst friends last night, someone brought a bottle of Pinot Noir that was new to me: 2009 Del Dotta Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Cinghiale Vineyard. The wine opened with a burst of cherry-vanilla on the nose and the palate, then sharpened to a savory, silky finish. We enjoyed it as an aperitif, but I imagine it would be at least equally good with a meal. I did a little research and, apparently, Del Dotto is a pretty cool winery to visit as well (how 'bout that segway).
Not the official wine of the Arkansas Razorbacks.
Napa Valley:
Many consider Napa Valley to be the best wine-growing region in the U.S., and it's easy to see why. Such a concentration of great wineries could only result from near-perfect growing conditions for some of the world's most high profile grapes, namely Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Somewhere in this picture, I'm frolicking in a vineyard.
Where to stay: Doesn't really matter. Just about everything is located on or in between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. I say find a place somewhat centrally located in the Valley, like Yountville or Rutherford, so that you can easily explore half of the valley in a day without having to drive too far.
Where to eat: There are a ton of great restaurants in Napa, and they range from uber-luxe to roadside stand. Our all-time favorites are more on the casual side. I love the tiny, funky Bounty Hunter in downtown Napa (city). I know...we Southerners think we know BBQ and, believe me, I consider myself a connoisseur, but this stuff is really good, and they have over 100 wines by the glass, and they'll help you pair it with BBQ(!?!). Heaven. My wife loves Oakville Grocery right off of Hwy 29. They have fresh, handmade sandwiches and the like, and you can bring your meal outside to one of their picnic tables and enjoy it with a newly-purchased wine in the great outdoors. A fantastic lunch spot. Of course, there's French Laundry (which we have never been to), Ad Hoc, Mustard's, Bistro Jeanty, Rutherford Grill, Gott's Roadside, and many, many more.
Where to drink: There are WAY too many great wineries/tasting rooms to spend any amount of time detailing. Here are some of our faves, working South to North: Domaine Carneros, Acacia, McKenzie-Mueller, Etude, Ceja, Domaine Chandon, Miner Family, Provenance, Hewitt, Alpha Omega and Duckhorn. Others that we have not yet visited, but enjoy their wines: Elyse, Pine Ridge, Jarvis, Buehler, Amizetta, Chappellet, Round Pond, Quintessa, Del Dotto, and Saintsbury.
The humble abode of Domaine Carneros
Whew! I'm tuckered out. We'll tackle Sonoma County in Thursday's blog. Feel free to share your recommendations for "must-do's" in Napa.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
A Great Valentine's Wine
So, I took my bride out for a fancy meal this past Valentine's Day at The Little Village in downtown Baton Rouge. Neither of us had eaten dinner at its new location, which was lovely. We got things started with some Mumm Napa Valley Prestige at the bar, and then settled down at a nice table for two (although it felt a bit like a table for six as the couples on either side of us were seated pretty close to our table - at one point, a couple two tables down got engaged, it felt like I was being proposed to, which was both awkward and kinda flattering...but I digress).
As we heard about the dinner specials and began to scout the menu, it was clear one of us was going red meat and the other seafood. What wine to order? It would need to be versatile enough to accompany steak and fish, both prepared in our local, South Louisiana style - somewhat heavy, rich, with some spice. And, it is Valentine's Day and I need all the brownie points I can get, so it needed to be at least a slight "splurge". We landed on a bottle (or two...who's counting?) of 2009 Foxen Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley.
Now, I've had Foxen a time or two, and read about the hilarious antics at its tasting room in the Sideways novels, but this wine snuck up on me. It was juicy and very fruit-forward - very California - but nicely balanced with enough richness and heft to compliment my Valentine's filet mignon, and delicate enough match my grilled mahi mahi. The wine also had a streak of acidity and a nice, clean finish that made it really food-friendly. We are planning to visit the Foxen winery in Santa Barbara County while we are vacationing there in May, and I hope to sample some more of their offerings.
A fine wine for a great, South Louisiana meal...and I think I managed to score some brownie points. Winner, winner, Valentine's dinner. What wines did you (re)discover this Valentine's Day?
As we heard about the dinner specials and began to scout the menu, it was clear one of us was going red meat and the other seafood. What wine to order? It would need to be versatile enough to accompany steak and fish, both prepared in our local, South Louisiana style - somewhat heavy, rich, with some spice. And, it is Valentine's Day and I need all the brownie points I can get, so it needed to be at least a slight "splurge". We landed on a bottle (or two...who's counting?) of 2009 Foxen Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley.
Now, I've had Foxen a time or two, and read about the hilarious antics at its tasting room in the Sideways novels, but this wine snuck up on me. It was juicy and very fruit-forward - very California - but nicely balanced with enough richness and heft to compliment my Valentine's filet mignon, and delicate enough match my grilled mahi mahi. The wine also had a streak of acidity and a nice, clean finish that made it really food-friendly. We are planning to visit the Foxen winery in Santa Barbara County while we are vacationing there in May, and I hope to sample some more of their offerings.
A fine wine for a great, South Louisiana meal...and I think I managed to score some brownie points. Winner, winner, Valentine's dinner. What wines did you (re)discover this Valentine's Day?
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Did Someone Say Deals?
Think the Internet is just for buying brides, shakeweights and music? Think again. The World Wide Web is actually the best place to buy wine this side of your trusted local wine shop. Case in point: Wines Til Sold Out (WTSO.com). This online seller is a liquidation tool for wineries and importers, and a blue light special for wine bargain hunters. In fact, this Wednesday is WTSO's semi-annual(ish) crown jewel of wine sales- Cheapskate Wednesday. This inventory clearance is a rapid-fire deal (follow on Twitter or keep their site open and refresh often for best results), but if you stay focused, the rewards can be mighty. This isn't cut-rate plonk that nobody wants. I personally have purchased the likes of Hewitt, Paraduxx, Coelho, David Bruce, Dionysus, and others from these sales. Oh yeah, and every bottle is guaranteed to sell between $7.99 and $18.99...plus free shipping when you buy four or more. I'm planning the expansion to my wine fridge now.
I'm not affiliated with WTSO.com at all, but especially here in Louisiana where our selection can be a bit dodgy and pricing stiff, it's nice to be able to look elsewhere...and you look important when you get big boxes delivered to the office.
Of course, online shopping can't replace the relationship you may have with your local retailer, or perhaps the convenience of the corner store. However, if you like a good bargain and appreciate good wines, it's worth a look. Happy hunting.
Later this week, I'll be bringing some recommendations of things to do, see, and taste whilst in California wine country. This seems to be the vacation du jour, and I'm getting a lot of requests, so I'd like to put my recs out there and perhaps some of you will chime in with your own.
Cheers...
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Welcome to A Southern Man's Guide to WIne
Yeah, I know it's my third post and I'm just now getting around to the "welcome message", but that's how I roll. So here goes...
Welcome to A Southern Man's Guide to Wine. Wine is not synonymous with Southern culture, but it should be. Sure, you hear about homemade, native-fruit swill in plenty o' country songs, but that's not what I'm talking about. Good wine has a place here...and for some reason it's not always at the table.
For a culture as obsessed with food as ours is, wine should be an everyday thing, woven into the fabric of Southern life. It is often a perfect accompaniment to our food, or vice versa, yet our exposure to good, food-friendly wine is limited. California Zinfandel is excellent with gumbo. Chardonnay and fried chicken are made for each other. Sauvignon Blanc and raw oysters should be pro forma. For some reason, you don't find these, let alone more creative, pairings at nary a restaurant or dinner party here in the Dirty South. Why is that?
But I'll tell you why Southerners should appreciate fine wine...and demand more of it. We respect craftsmanship, beauty, and sense of place. We love a good value, too. Southerners also appreciate "real", and there is nothing more real than when a vineyard speaks through a wine...or when a winemaker sits down with you to pour his latest release....or when you have that first sip of fine wine. So, why doesn't wine have a more prominent place here?
Finding answers, or rather, solutions to this dilemma is what this site is all about. I want to expose others to fine wine, and all that goes into it, as well as show how it fits into every day life in the South. Good, even great, wine is here. You just have to look for it.
So, please join me as we taste through new wines and explore new (or old) ways to incorporate it into Southern culture. Let me know what you think...
Welcome to A Southern Man's Guide to Wine. Wine is not synonymous with Southern culture, but it should be. Sure, you hear about homemade, native-fruit swill in plenty o' country songs, but that's not what I'm talking about. Good wine has a place here...and for some reason it's not always at the table.
For a culture as obsessed with food as ours is, wine should be an everyday thing, woven into the fabric of Southern life. It is often a perfect accompaniment to our food, or vice versa, yet our exposure to good, food-friendly wine is limited. California Zinfandel is excellent with gumbo. Chardonnay and fried chicken are made for each other. Sauvignon Blanc and raw oysters should be pro forma. For some reason, you don't find these, let alone more creative, pairings at nary a restaurant or dinner party here in the Dirty South. Why is that?
But I'll tell you why Southerners should appreciate fine wine...and demand more of it. We respect craftsmanship, beauty, and sense of place. We love a good value, too. Southerners also appreciate "real", and there is nothing more real than when a vineyard speaks through a wine...or when a winemaker sits down with you to pour his latest release....or when you have that first sip of fine wine. So, why doesn't wine have a more prominent place here?
Finding answers, or rather, solutions to this dilemma is what this site is all about. I want to expose others to fine wine, and all that goes into it, as well as show how it fits into every day life in the South. Good, even great, wine is here. You just have to look for it.
So, please join me as we taste through new wines and explore new (or old) ways to incorporate it into Southern culture. Let me know what you think...
Sunday, February 5, 2012
PINOT BOWL I
The big game just finished, but another monumental competition crowned
its champion last night. Pinot Bowl I pitted five titans of
American Pinot Noir against each other in an impromptu battle to the death
(meaning we drained the bottles).
The battlefield: French Market
Bistro in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Its
classic bistro setting and Pinot-friendly menu – plus inexpensive and accommodating
corkage policy – made it an ideal setting for PB1’s maiden voyage.
The ground rules: each couple
was responsible for bringing a bottle of Pinot (no price, vintage, origin, or
style requirements). Each bottle was
bagged and numbered to be tasted blindly by our panel of enthusiasts – the only
way to crown a true Pinot champion. Each
couple was provided a score sheet with which to rate each wine according to
appearance, aroma, body, taste and finish.
The wine with the highest cumulative score wins. Its owner receives a golden chalice and
fatted calf.
The lineup:
2008 Etude Pinot Noir Carneros
2009 MacPhail Vagon Rouge
2009 Goyette Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2009 Williams Selyem Central
Coast Pinot Noir
2008 Stoller SV Pinot Noir
Pinot Bowl I: The Contestants
Each of the wines was delicious enough to merit its own meal. The Etude displayed the classic Carneros
loamy earth and mineral characteristics.
The MacPhail was wound tighter than a two dollar watch, but slowly
opened up to cherry and spice notes. The
Goyette was a cherry-vanilla treat with just the right amount of acidity to
keep the fruit in check. Williams Selyem
is always delicious and expressive of place, and the savory Central Coast was
right on point.
The Champion, Stoller SV, was perfectly balanced with earth, berries
and spice. A pleasure to sip.
Alas, my wine (MacPhail) was not the winner, but it felt a lot like
4-year-old soccer: we all won. It was a great experience and a fun way to
learn the nuances of, in this case, American Pinots. Take that Giants fans.
Oh, and in case anyone was actually wondering if I drank Bogle during
the game, see below. The Petite Sirah
was very good, and a nice accompaniment to turkey cutlets on the grill. Have a great week and don’t forget to find
some time to drink some wine. Cheers…
Thursday, February 2, 2012
What Would Manning and Brady Drink?
So, the big game is just a few days away and, if you're like me, nothing washes down an occasion like the grape. It's not always easy to pick the "right" wine for a big event, so let's examine what the two star quarterbacks might be sipping were they enjoying the Super Bowl from home:
Eli Manning - while he looks like a mouth-breather and has an "ah, shucks" persona, Eli handles his high-profile gig with grace, and seems to come up big in the clutch. He probably enjoys a wine that might not have a lot of sizzle on the outside, but can hang with the big boys when it comes to taste and complexity. I'm thinking he likes the 2008 Buehler Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. It's not flashy, and somewhat unimposing at $35 a bottle, but boy is it good. He's a simple man that enjoys a great, though unadorned, wine that plain delivers.
Tom Brady - what do you drink when you have three Super Bowl rings, are rich and good-looking, and have an uber-hot wife? Something exotic. And CRAZY expensive. Penfolds Grange 2005 should do the trick. It says: "I appreciate good stuff and I'm not afraid to cough up some serious coin for it...oh, and I'm not some stuffy and predictable Bordeaux drinker, either." I can just see Mr. Brady sipping this in his UGGS, while lying on a bearskin rug and watching the game as Gisele feeds him figs dripping with honey. Sheesh. Aren't UGGS from Australia? So is this wine! Neat-O!
And for me? Funny you should ask. Since the Black & Gold isn't playing, I'm not looking to pour liquid gold, though I must drink good juice. I need something that I can actually find in a store (and in quantity), won't break the bank, is GOOD, and versatile enough to accompany a variety of artery-clogging gameday dishes. Where do I look? To an ol' favorite: Bogle.
Yeah, it's practically everywhere, but it's not bland, ubiquitous, rotgut. Far from it. Practically every wine they make is really good year in and year out...and none of it crosses the 12-dolla threshold. I'm going with the Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah, but the Chard, Cab and Pinot ain't too shabby either.
Most importantly, enjoy the game with family, friends and good wine (we hate you Tom Brady).
Eli Manning - while he looks like a mouth-breather and has an "ah, shucks" persona, Eli handles his high-profile gig with grace, and seems to come up big in the clutch. He probably enjoys a wine that might not have a lot of sizzle on the outside, but can hang with the big boys when it comes to taste and complexity. I'm thinking he likes the 2008 Buehler Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. It's not flashy, and somewhat unimposing at $35 a bottle, but boy is it good. He's a simple man that enjoys a great, though unadorned, wine that plain delivers.
Tom Brady - what do you drink when you have three Super Bowl rings, are rich and good-looking, and have an uber-hot wife? Something exotic. And CRAZY expensive. Penfolds Grange 2005 should do the trick. It says: "I appreciate good stuff and I'm not afraid to cough up some serious coin for it...oh, and I'm not some stuffy and predictable Bordeaux drinker, either." I can just see Mr. Brady sipping this in his UGGS, while lying on a bearskin rug and watching the game as Gisele feeds him figs dripping with honey. Sheesh. Aren't UGGS from Australia? So is this wine! Neat-O!
And for me? Funny you should ask. Since the Black & Gold isn't playing, I'm not looking to pour liquid gold, though I must drink good juice. I need something that I can actually find in a store (and in quantity), won't break the bank, is GOOD, and versatile enough to accompany a variety of artery-clogging gameday dishes. Where do I look? To an ol' favorite: Bogle.
Yeah, it's practically everywhere, but it's not bland, ubiquitous, rotgut. Far from it. Practically every wine they make is really good year in and year out...and none of it crosses the 12-dolla threshold. I'm going with the Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah, but the Chard, Cab and Pinot ain't too shabby either.
Most importantly, enjoy the game with family, friends and good wine (we hate you Tom Brady).
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